My sea’s been somewhat drained of late. The big fish had all been landed in a tidal wave of excitement, floating, and sometimes surprise. The lighthouses are beaming and the analogy’s been overstretched.
The magical moment is when a new project blisters over the horizon in a gargantuan solar flare. That feeling where you go from plodding tedium to raw unadulterated excitement is like no other. I have a line that seems to tingle through every part of my body, every minute of every day and I have moves to dwell, relive and then obsess, obsess. It’s a love I’ve not truly felt for nearly 3 years.
The best thing about a true project in the right place, at the right time, is that it promises to change you. The little niggles in your climbing that you want to change, improve, but that require so much effort to modify, suddenly HAVE TO be adapted. To have a line that you know you HAVE TO climb makes so many other decisions so much easier. Inspired is an understatement; I feel alive again.
Getting stronger is something you see all over climbing media these days and as a personal quest, it is something that is innately exciting. Being able to hang new holds, hang old ones with weight attached, or perform new moves between them is a big attraction in climbing these days and I can understand why people might want to do this as a discipline in its own right. To be then in a position where that strength or power is the ke
What’s been great over the past two months is the different projects I’ve found. One is the ultimate – something just out of reach, which is going to require new skills on slopers, as well as substantial reserve mono strength. It’s bold, hard and will be one of the best lines of its kind in the country when climbed. The second line makes the first even better. It is of a very similar nature, but on tiny monos, with huge powerful moves in between, it’s harder and similarly high. This last line is the “pipe dream”, font 8b/c moves back to back at a super highball height. It would be amazing just to do all the moves individually – to link them would be outer space.
The genius of these two projects is that the training is similar for both. The hard one makes the less hard one seem less mad as a solo and the easier one makes the step to climb the harder one seem less extreme. It’s doubtful I’ll climb either to be honest, but it feels like the moors are giving back a series of stepping stones to enlightenment. Reciprocal love – what we always wanted!