Thursday, 5 July 2007
Although it was our local crag, we didn't vist it untill the back end of this year as there wasn't a picture of it in the guide and we assumed iy would be crap, we were wrong. A Local Wise man recomended it to us, so we went. It turned out it was one of the best crags in the area. Hopefully the new guide will inspire some more people to venture there (with our picture- you can see my head behind the rock to the right of the bag). We soloed a few routes then realised many of the routes were not at the standard of an HVS climber (which we were), so we started on some first ascents.
There was a large expanse of rock that had no routes on, so we led a few VSs. Dave completed his scoop project a few mounths later, at HVS 5a, and i've since returned to solo some Routes in the Snow in November(a sevre; a Vs; and two HVSs). I Really recomend it, if your in the area.
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Thursday, July 05, 2007
Monday, 2 July 2007
I had seen Luke solo this difficult arete in the past and marvelled at how amazing he was. I had tried it before after soloing 'Bow String' and Top roping 'Zero Route', but had barely got off the ground. I had purchase my new DMM Highball bouldering mat from Needle Sports, it was clean and yellow below Lion King, protecting that rock that looked so dangerous.
I climbed up untill i was straddling the nose. I move my hand up to pinch the Arete and then pulled up and continued on good hold to the top. Got it in one i thought. It was not much more than a boulder problem, but it was a subconscious target. This made me think that maybe if i could climb this, I could one day be a 'good' climber. (I'm yet to find that out.)
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Monday, July 02, 2007