Sunday, 25 November 2007

Dental Slab- Rylstone

We had our eye on a Few Es, but when we arrived it was raining. Despite this, the ever possitive Ian, attempted some E1. He didnt even get up to the crux. He retreated and we wandered over to some easier stuff. I was with two Ians- Big (moore) and Little (Jackson). On the walk over to Dental slab we lost little ian (who had the gear), so i started climbing this 'easy' Severe with only a SIG bottle for gear. Surely the top of it would stay on? ( I was determined as I had failed on a diff next to corvus- Raven crag-in a storm the previous week.) I passed the crux and then Little Ian arrived with the gear. He lobbed me a nut and i continued. It was a greesy friction climb and many-a-time i nearly fell. But i got to the top. And it were reet. I belayed the Ians up. Then the rope was weighted, this mid-E-grade climber had fallen on a severe- this didn't make me feel so bad at using a rope on this 'easy' Severe.

Sunday, 4 November 2007

Harlot's Face


This was more Dave's achievement than mine. We had failed on Triermain Eliminate a few days before due to a rain shower, but we came back to try a new line.I wasn't on form having just craped myself up an HVS 4c round the other side soloing. But we went round the North crag after a recommendation from a friendly guy.
I lead the first pitch struggling, looking for an easy line- using some pendulum tactics. Then with my gear being round a suspect four foot flake and my only holds being on it- a novel experience, I made my bid for the top. My part was done. Dave flew up in His 5.10 rock boots and got equiped for the crux pitch.



He climbed up the E2 crack of Triermain Eliminate and then traverse rightwards with a brilliant hold round the arete (remember that if you ever do it). He cruised up the last stretch and then belayed me up.

According to the guide book it was all over now, a nice 4b pitch. It wasn't 4b a difficult crack lead to the only gear- a sapling (an inch thick). I was terrified, 150ft up with only a sapling ten metres back for gear. green and grassy, I finally reached a holly tree. The end of the climb. Safe.

a5.jpg

Friday, 2 November 2007

Susan- gowbarrow





(Top of susan, after a hard days climbing, looking down to home- the CMC Hut.(only a hitch away) taken on a 1 MGPix camera phone)


After Walking up ulswater fom patterdale- some unsuccessful hitching. we arrived at gowbarrow Knackered. We Started on a nice roof crack and then moved up to the bigger buttress. It was my Turn to lead.

We walked through the jungle untill the bottom of susan was reached. An obvious, easy looking line (i must stop thinking things look easy). The start was hard and it got no easier, i ran out of cams quickly, then the hexes went. Just as i was about to fall i saw the miracle, an in situ- nut (an old one). This saved me. I rested for a minute then climbed the difficult exit crack. This was the climb of my life. Dave followed me up in true style, enjoying the moves that had been my torment.
it was only given HVS, but i had found E2s easier. Sandbaged? or inexperience on rhyolite? Who knows.
But I felt like a true Climber now.