Saturday, 22 September 2007
The Battle With Extreme
E2 is the grade of my focus at the moment, despite that on some days i cant even climb HVS. I did my first E2 with Ian Jackson, It was Triermain Eliminate at Castle rock in the lake district. After a good season i felt experienced and good at climbing. We went to Castle rock and ventured up this E2. I was seconding, but it was still scary- one move involved your hand and foot holds being on the same loose flake. It was a Don Whillans route and i was proud. Ian onsighted it with ease. We then moved left and attempted Rigor Mortis, Ian struggled on this Hard E2 and so did I (only seconding).
I had lead the first pitch- at 4b or something daft and was reasonably tired , by the second i was exhausted, this bold traverse was a nightmare, with a stuck nut i hung on a layback (knowing if i got the nut out and then fell i would have a nice big swing in to a wall- thinking of Doug Scott on the Ogre). I couldn't get it out so i uncliped and took my own line up the rock. We abseiled down for it later.
My first E2 lead (onsight) was at Oak Crag- Hungry Heart. It was bold but easy, an HVS really. Since this i've done various sandbaged 'E1s' and some proper E2s. Hope to do some E3s (E4 maybe) next year.
Posted by Franco Cookson Written Saturday, September 22, 2007