Saturday, 22 September 2007

The Battle With Extreme

E2 is the grade of my focus at the moment, despite that on some days i cant even climb HVS. I did my first E2 with Ian Jackson, It was Triermain Eliminate at Castle rock in the lake district. After a good season i felt experienced and good at climbing. We went to Castle rock and ventured up this E2. I was seconding, but it was still scary- one move involved your hand and foot holds being on the same loose flake. It was a Don Whillans route and i was proud. Ian onsighted it with ease. We then moved left and attempted Rigor Mortis, Ian struggled on this Hard E2 and so did I (only seconding).
I had lead the first pitch- at 4b or something daft and was reasonably tired , by the second i was exhausted, this bold traverse was a nightmare, with a stuck nut i hung on a layback (knowing if i got the nut out and then fell i would have a nice big swing in to a wall- thinking of Doug Scott on the Ogre). I couldn't get it out so i uncliped and took my own line up the rock. We abseiled down for it later.
My first E2 lead (onsight) was at Oak Crag- Hungry Heart. It was bold but easy, an HVS really. Since this i've done various sandbaged 'E1s' and some proper E2s. Hope to do some E3s (E4 maybe) next year.

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