Thursday, 10 January 2008

First Ascent Projects

There's nout better than a crooked hand clasping the top of a previously unclimbed line and then the whale over. Then discoverng that that knarled hand is yours and you've achieved a feat that noone else has and you shall always be the first to have done so.

Achilles Last Stand (Mowgli Direct) is one of My best F.As, crimpy, reachy, tiring, insanely high foot holds- chest height and very bold. I was really Psyched that day. I've tried it since and failed miserably. It ascends the featureless-looking wall to the right of 'Forked Crack' at Park Nab. The main reason why i loved the experience so much was because of the mental significance. I had looked at it since i started climbing, thinking it was impossible to climb. Not only climbing it, but being the first ascensionists was a major thing for me. I'll always remember it.

Some of our best First ascents were in the lakes. Me and Dave discovered this slate outcrop, on our first climbing trip to the lakes together. It's undoubtebly been climbed on before as its ten yards from a path, but it was good rock and an adventure. Dave led an amazing HVS (funny Friend placement) called Stormbringer. I attempted an arete at about E3, but i was no E3 climber and only managed to top rope it. We named it Durple Gill as it had no name on the map- no doubt the real name will come from the natives eventually. It's a nice evenings climbing and we hope to do the bulk of the ascents next time we go- don't be knicking them!


Another plan is to do the face at Turkey nab. Last time I looked at it, it looked imposible, but i've progressed since then, so hopefully it will fall. I recon it'll be at least E2+. Don't knick that either please. Ian Jackson mentioned The wall at Roseberry topping a while back- loose, hard and probably not there anymore, it would be good, but even he reconed it would be well in the Es.

Meeting Tony Marr inspired me to do some more routes. I thought it was a hastle sending the First ascents in, but he seemed quite possitive about it.

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