Monday, 3 September 2007

Ling Arete- Wainstones - Our First Good FA


Me and Dave Warburton had had a season of chossy first ascents and we were keen to Climb something half-decsent. We had gone to Park nab to 'have a ganda', but there was not an inch of rock left unclimbed, so we made our way to the Wainstones. I was under an illusion that it would be posible to climb the Arete of summit buttress, but an illusion is what it was. The over-hanging roof turned into a featureless arete- i doubt Dave Macleod could have climbed it. So we walked round untill we saw another arete, so obvious, why had we not climbed it before? it looked easy, but something about the Strata of the rock made it not so.
We set up a top rope as this was harder than anything we had done before. It felt hard top roping- i wasn't looking forward to a lead. We lead it with pre-placed gear, then wittled it down untill we placed every piece. I was the first to do so, then dave repeated it.
I have never Worked a Climb so much, but an onsight, for us, would have proved imposible. I'm yet to hear of a repeat, but would be glad to hear if the HVS grade was Accurate.
(have recently tried to solo it with Ian and we both failed)

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