Sunday, 27 January 2008

Hasty Bank

A Direct Finish To A Wainstones VD






A trip to Hasty Bank saw some attempts of difficult routes and some equally spectacular failures. A great day, that couldn’t be lost. We started on Jackdaw Wall (E2 6a) (Wainstones) and were at the beginning unsuccessful. We attempted a Solo, but with large angular shelf below a fall would have meant serious injury. I elected for a lead and rummaged through my sack for a piton I had brought. This was against Ian’s ethics, but it was hand placed and damaged no rock so I was content. The peg pushed in and then some precarious wires were placed. I still decided to retreat though- after some dithering, although nearly went for it. We later climbed it solo, but was extremely scary.

My god, what a climb. Dooge shall be witness of my terrible failure upon this. Psycho Syndicate(E4 6b), described as a ‘test piece’ in the guide, it climbs the peg-scarred crack for 6 metres and then another couple of metres up a blank face. Again I tried on the blank wall. My lack of skill being punished with horrendous falls down the hill. No serious injuries were had though and I’m nearly there!

Whilst I munched on my tin of nuts, Ian (chubby/little) decided to waltz up West Sphinx Direct(E3 5c). It went smoothly until the ‘Eye’ when he had a ‘wee bit of a tumble’. He was alright though and finished it off. He wasn’t too bothered though as he’d previously onsighted it-not loosing his tick. Me and Dave attempted to climbed the Direct Start to west sphinx (E2 5c) , although the last move was repeatedly failed, the beginning was worked out and hopefully the rest will be done next time.

Then there was a crazy solo attempt at Satchmo, which resulted in a nasty fall and then a tumble; and a kamikaze attempt at a roof at the Wainstones, resulting in some more interesting falls. So there was only three successful attempts and many more leg-braking falls. –A good Day out!

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