Sunday, 16 March 2008

Physical Graffiti

Since it's discovery two weeks ago there has been little else on my mental Ticklist. It appears from a distance as a friendly wall at the left edge of Hunter's buttress- Ingleby. Only on closer inspection does one realise the blankness and severity of the beautiful wall. It is as far as i'm aware unclimbed, as it has no mention in the guide or internet. It is gearless and does not sink in technical difficultly much below 6b.

For those of you who know the moors well, the move is very similar to eve left-hand at scugdale, only with worse holds and the foot at near-chest height.I had previously failed to get much off the ground, but today worked the start out. The move still requires the use of a mono (1st green) to get established, then two poor sloping crimps (1st red and blue) and then a high foot (brown) with the left foot trailing on the pink hold. A powerful crimpy pull and then a snatch for the big pocket (2nd green) makes it possible. After the second green is gained, some good footwork would mean a reech to a poor sloper (red) would be possible. Then easier climbing to the top, I imagine, via a few breaks. I've worked out the bottom i just hope that i'll get back strong and the slopers will be good enough to pull on. It's looking like a solo on 6b moves. A good landing though so grade- wise? E3? We'll see, but i hope to get back next week and finish it off. It's a great route and the start its self deserves a star.

1 comment:

Dave Warburton said...

We'll 'av that problem, come mid spring, just need a warm, windless day and it will fall.

I'll work on getting better at slopey crimps and all will be well.