Friday, 30 May 2008

The Peak- Silver Lining E5 5c- Teli E3 6a- Time for Tea E3

I forgot my rock shoes on my first day in the Peak so soloed a few VSs/HVSs in trainers at Froggatt. Mike Hunt popped along later, with my rock boots, so he was able to show me all the classics and then Three Pebbled Slab. I had a bit of a dodgey moment on Three pebble slab as I had no chalk and it was a warm day. I managed it though and wouldn't think it would be much better on lead. Then he left and I was left to solo a few E2s and Silver Lining (E5).

Silver Lining

I soloed up only to be faced with a bold move on the E5 arete. I down climbed and arranged a self leading belay (effectively a lead, but more dodgey- same falls and gear ect.) I then soloed up; clipped into the one piece of gear and past the point of no return. I considered just jumping onto the gear, but then thought I might as well try and get to the top, as the system might not work. The Arete kept going and I got more scared; a 20 foot fall was on the cards now. A terrible precarious move was left, but my feet stuck. The crux was beaten and i was left with one more friction move, straddling the arete. I latched the top jug and pulled over- victorious. The rope came tight and I had to untie to top out- due to my leading system. It all went to plan though and my crazy lead was over. I racked my brain to think of a way someone could accuse me of cheating, but if anything what I did was harder than a proper lead. A first E5 :-)Stanage- Library Photo

The next day it was Stanage. Mike hunt had arranged for me to meet up with Mike Pinder, so off we trotted. We started off with this odd VS roof, but then I realised I had only placed one runner, so the big roof was unprotected for mike- a remedial mistake. This was put behind us though and we then went on to tick the unconquerables and millsom's minion (an E1).Dooge On Teli- library photo.
Then I moved on to Teli. A line I had retreated off before. I cruised the first section, but then slipped on the bloody mantle. I had done this part so many times before. Why slip now! ah well. I started again and led it clean. Nice move at the top- don't know why I didn't go for it last time!

Next day was wet so I just bouldered around and did a route at Raven Tor. On the Monday Luke Hunt turned up and off we went to Millstone. We were a bit knacked, but I still managed Embankment 3; Bond Street; Knightsbridge and Time For Tea. All four routes were amazing and Knightsbridge truly is a classic. Time for Tea seemed a bit dodgey at first, but turned out to be o.k, just ignore how far away your runners are.

A few Recommended solos:
Dover's Wall, Route 3 - VS 4c
Dover's Wall, Route 2 - HVS 5a
Dover's Wall, Route 1 - HS 4b
Dover's Wall, Route 4 - VS 4b
Zigzag Flake Crack - VS 4b
Coconut Ice - E2 5b
Hargreaves' Original Route - VS 4c
Christmas Crack - HS 4a
Central Trinity - VS 4c
Leaning Buttress Gully - VS 4c
Hangover - VS 4c
Wedge Rib - VS 5a
Castle Crack - HS 4b
Black Hawk - HS 4c
Gargoyle Variant - HS 4b
Gargoyle Buttress - VS 4b
Tinker's Crack - VS 4c
Beggar's Crack - VS 4c
Manchester Buttress - HS 4b
Grotto Wall - HVS 4c
Green Wall - VS 4b
Gullible's Travels - E1 5b
Niche Wall Direct - HS 4b
Trivial Pursuit (Blunt Arete) - VS 4c
Square Chimney Arete - S 4b
Square Buttress Direct - HVS 5b
Square Buttress Arete - VS 4c
Square Buttress Wall - VS 4b
Gashed Knee - VS 5a
Gashed Crack - VS 5a

Brimham- Red Tape E2/3

What a laugh. crappy weather, no climbing. Dogged my way up Red Tape and took a dodgey, but sensible line up an E3. The best route me and Jack did was a VS 4b- Beams the Same. - A traverse of the Beams of his mate's barn.

Whales- Comes the Dervish E3 5c, The Chisseling E4 6b, Scarlet Runner E4 5c

Soloing At Serengetti

We unfortunately didn't get up to the pass as it was slightly windy and we were climbing well on the Slate, so thought we'd tick some slate routes. We warmed up by doing a few micro routes, most with spaced bolts.

A few routes I led-
The chiseling E4 6b- nice route, but like glass on either side. You had to sprint up the crack before your feet slipped out of it. I managed it, but only after many failed attempts.

The Chiseling- the one with the rope still on.

Scarlet Runner E4 5c- a good slab, felt more than 5c, but after the initial move for the bolt, isn't too badly protected.

Darli's Whole- The Chiseling is the crack to the left of the nearest people.

Holy Holy Holy E2 5c- really nice lead, led it twice in fact. Beautiful slate, with just enough friction.

The launching Pad E1- didn't use side runners, so slightly bold. This shouldn't have been bolted.

Seamstress/ Seams The Same E2/ Vs- done at 5.30 A.M- as we bivyed under it. It was so cold, we decided to climb early.

Comes The Dervish

Comes the Dervish E3 5c- Apparently one of the best slate routes- I set off in the rain and had difficulty swapping cracks, but finally managed it. easy climbing to the roof left only the pull over the overlap and 'easy' slab above. just as I was thinking of how i could get out of the powerful pull over the roof, the sun came out. This spurred me on as I climbed over the roof with relative ease, only to be greeted by the slab. only 5a/b climbing,but run out, Dave looked on as I swore loudly about the guide book writer. It was finally done and I was happy as I could say I had led a proper E3. :-)

Another shit night, with Dooge in his Sleeping Bag Liners

A Typical Welsh Hole

On the whole we had a good trip, but shite bivying. Every night we moved bivy spots in the quarries as rain or wind ruined any chance of sleep. Dave didn't even have a sleeping bag. I could Write a lot about the trip, but will just keep it to the routes we did and some crappy, but humerous pictures. We met some UKCers though and I was impressed with the general standard of climbers met. -Some crazy geezers had been climbing positron (gogarth E5) in the Wet? Well tis the madness of the west I suppose.

Amazingly no photo editing here, just my camera phone shutter, lol.

Thursday, 8 May 2008

Moonflower Direct E4 6b

I had previously bouldered the lower moves, but had failed to get very high. Today I set out on the lead- a peanut on one side, a quickdraw in the other. And so I approached the impossible-looking wall. The point that had stopped me before fell, but not without difficulty; the smears were just enough to slap my right foot up on an edge and reech for the illusive break.
I got it. Not as good as it first appeared, I fiddled around on the good crimps and managed to get a directional wire in. absolutly knackered I made sure it was sat well and then went for the top moves- brilliant slopey lay-backing crimps led to a high and exillerating finish. Edges were used that were like nothing contemplated before, never has levitation seemed more like a preferable tactic. The top was finaly gained, but not until a moment of utter enjoyment.
Normally a climb's enjoyment is only gained afterwards, but the moves and micro slopers on Moonflower bring out an enjoyment that is like nothing else. If this is my introduction to hardish trad, then I can not wait for the rest.

Thursday, 1 May 2008

Training at a local Quarry

(more of a test run than anything interesting)