Thursday, 8 May 2008

Moonflower Direct E4 6b

I had previously bouldered the lower moves, but had failed to get very high. Today I set out on the lead- a peanut on one side, a quickdraw in the other. And so I approached the impossible-looking wall. The point that had stopped me before fell, but not without difficulty; the smears were just enough to slap my right foot up on an edge and reech for the illusive break.
I got it. Not as good as it first appeared, I fiddled around on the good crimps and managed to get a directional wire in. absolutly knackered I made sure it was sat well and then went for the top moves- brilliant slopey lay-backing crimps led to a high and exillerating finish. Edges were used that were like nothing contemplated before, never has levitation seemed more like a preferable tactic. The top was finaly gained, but not until a moment of utter enjoyment.
Normally a climb's enjoyment is only gained afterwards, but the moves and micro slopers on Moonflower bring out an enjoyment that is like nothing else. If this is my introduction to hardish trad, then I can not wait for the rest.

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