Friday, 30 May 2008

The Peak- Silver Lining E5 5c- Teli E3 6a- Time for Tea E3

I forgot my rock shoes on my first day in the Peak so soloed a few VSs/HVSs in trainers at Froggatt. Mike Hunt popped along later, with my rock boots, so he was able to show me all the classics and then Three Pebbled Slab. I had a bit of a dodgey moment on Three pebble slab as I had no chalk and it was a warm day. I managed it though and wouldn't think it would be much better on lead. Then he left and I was left to solo a few E2s and Silver Lining (E5).

Silver Lining

I soloed up only to be faced with a bold move on the E5 arete. I down climbed and arranged a self leading belay (effectively a lead, but more dodgey- same falls and gear ect.) I then soloed up; clipped into the one piece of gear and past the point of no return. I considered just jumping onto the gear, but then thought I might as well try and get to the top, as the system might not work. The Arete kept going and I got more scared; a 20 foot fall was on the cards now. A terrible precarious move was left, but my feet stuck. The crux was beaten and i was left with one more friction move, straddling the arete. I latched the top jug and pulled over- victorious. The rope came tight and I had to untie to top out- due to my leading system. It all went to plan though and my crazy lead was over. I racked my brain to think of a way someone could accuse me of cheating, but if anything what I did was harder than a proper lead. A first E5 :-)Stanage- Library Photo

The next day it was Stanage. Mike hunt had arranged for me to meet up with Mike Pinder, so off we trotted. We started off with this odd VS roof, but then I realised I had only placed one runner, so the big roof was unprotected for mike- a remedial mistake. This was put behind us though and we then went on to tick the unconquerables and millsom's minion (an E1).Dooge On Teli- library photo.
Then I moved on to Teli. A line I had retreated off before. I cruised the first section, but then slipped on the bloody mantle. I had done this part so many times before. Why slip now! ah well. I started again and led it clean. Nice move at the top- don't know why I didn't go for it last time!

Next day was wet so I just bouldered around and did a route at Raven Tor. On the Monday Luke Hunt turned up and off we went to Millstone. We were a bit knacked, but I still managed Embankment 3; Bond Street; Knightsbridge and Time For Tea. All four routes were amazing and Knightsbridge truly is a classic. Time for Tea seemed a bit dodgey at first, but turned out to be o.k, just ignore how far away your runners are.

A few Recommended solos:
Dover's Wall, Route 3 - VS 4c
Dover's Wall, Route 2 - HVS 5a
Dover's Wall, Route 1 - HS 4b
Dover's Wall, Route 4 - VS 4b
Zigzag Flake Crack - VS 4b
Coconut Ice - E2 5b
Hargreaves' Original Route - VS 4c
Christmas Crack - HS 4a
Central Trinity - VS 4c
Leaning Buttress Gully - VS 4c
Hangover - VS 4c
Wedge Rib - VS 5a
Castle Crack - HS 4b
Black Hawk - HS 4c
Gargoyle Variant - HS 4b
Gargoyle Buttress - VS 4b
Tinker's Crack - VS 4c
Beggar's Crack - VS 4c
Manchester Buttress - HS 4b
Grotto Wall - HVS 4c
Green Wall - VS 4b
Gullible's Travels - E1 5b
Niche Wall Direct - HS 4b
Trivial Pursuit (Blunt Arete) - VS 4c
Square Chimney Arete - S 4b
Square Buttress Direct - HVS 5b
Square Buttress Arete - VS 4c
Square Buttress Wall - VS 4b
Gashed Knee - VS 5a
Gashed Crack - VS 5a

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