Friday, 30 May 2008

Whales- Comes the Dervish E3 5c, The Chisseling E4 6b, Scarlet Runner E4 5c



Soloing At Serengetti

We unfortunately didn't get up to the pass as it was slightly windy and we were climbing well on the Slate, so thought we'd tick some slate routes. We warmed up by doing a few micro routes, most with spaced bolts.

A few routes I led-
The chiseling E4 6b- nice route, but like glass on either side. You had to sprint up the crack before your feet slipped out of it. I managed it, but only after many failed attempts.

The Chiseling- the one with the rope still on.

Scarlet Runner E4 5c- a good slab, felt more than 5c, but after the initial move for the bolt, isn't too badly protected.


Darli's Whole- The Chiseling is the crack to the left of the nearest people.

Holy Holy Holy E2 5c- really nice lead, led it twice in fact. Beautiful slate, with just enough friction.

The launching Pad E1- didn't use side runners, so slightly bold. This shouldn't have been bolted.


Seamstress/ Seams The Same E2/ Vs- done at 5.30 A.M- as we bivyed under it. It was so cold, we decided to climb early.



Comes The Dervish


Comes the Dervish E3 5c- Apparently one of the best slate routes- I set off in the rain and had difficulty swapping cracks, but finally managed it. easy climbing to the roof left only the pull over the overlap and 'easy' slab above. just as I was thinking of how i could get out of the powerful pull over the roof, the sun came out. This spurred me on as I climbed over the roof with relative ease, only to be greeted by the slab. only 5a/b climbing,but run out, Dave looked on as I swore loudly about the guide book writer. It was finally done and I was happy as I could say I had led a proper E3. :-)



Another shit night, with Dooge in his Sleeping Bag Liners


A Typical Welsh Hole



On the whole we had a good trip, but shite bivying. Every night we moved bivy spots in the quarries as rain or wind ruined any chance of sleep. Dave didn't even have a sleeping bag. I could Write a lot about the trip, but will just keep it to the routes we did and some crappy, but humerous pictures. We met some UKCers though and I was impressed with the general standard of climbers met. -Some crazy geezers had been climbing positron (gogarth E5) in the Wet? Well tis the madness of the west I suppose.



Amazingly no photo editing here, just my camera phone shutter, lol.

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