Saturday, 7 June 2008

The Lakes- Two Eagle Crags, Bleak How- Bleak How Eliminate- E5 6a

We spent a day at Eagle Crag (Grisedale) and I took my dad up the classic Kestrel Wall- Severe. Awesome route in an Awesome position. We then scrambled off and me and Dooge set about on 'Horse Power'- E2. Nice line, but you need some small cams.

Post Mortem (Eagle Crag Langstrath) - E3 5c- A dangerous scramble up to the bottom of the route, claimed my rucksack- down, off the cliff. We then set out on the '3 starred line'. Dooge ran out a fair few metres over classic 5a rock- covered in ferns, grass, mud, general grease. He nearly lost it, especially when the 'eagles' swooped in, but he got to the ledge and brought me up.

Sg. Crag Slabs

I geared up and slithered- ramming a leg jam in the overhanging crack. This is how i attacked it- one leg in the crack, one off-width and the other limbs trying to get something on the grease. We had forgotten the large friend, so the only gear was one in-situ wire. The only problem was one of it's wires had rusted through so only friction was keeping the nut head on. I led on scarred and knackered- made my own fist jam out of a pile of chockstones and led up the green crux. I was slipping and the holds were buried. I eventually had to down climb the whole route- It was too steep to ab for the gear. A failure, but an experience. We abed off a suspect in-situ green sling and went for some food and a 'look' at Bleak How. We later looked through a more modern guide, that said a bird ban had been in place for 6 years- explained a lot about the filth. The 'Eagles' were probably peregrines. We didn't know though so shouldn't feel too guilty.

'Onsighting' Bleakhow Eliminate E5 6a

Bleak How Eliminate was awesome. It looked really easy from the ground, but the ryolite was like glass. A thin move, with a high leg enables a reach for a good lay-back and gear. Then I set about the crux. An odd sequence- swing on the layback to a mono, then more gear and a swing to an under-cut and a reach for good holds. I got some more gear in and then finished off the easier climbing. You have to be delicate and strong for this one!

Dooge Is Now Driving, so we should be off to a few more crags- the 'Espace'. lol

This trip made me think once again about what sort of climber I am. I failed on a mountain E3, but then again it was very green. I think I'll give Prana at Black Crag a go, before I make my mind up about whether I'm a micro-router or not.

Unfortunately slightly blurred. This was the crappist sheep I’d ever seen- mangy, half-sheared, a broken horn, scrawny and judging by the different colours, about four farmers owned it. Reminded me of myself really.

1 comment:

Alex Roddie said...

I enjoyed reading that :) Sounds like it was quite an adventure! I'm in awe of how much climbing you've done recently. Puts my pathetic hiatus over the exam season into sharp relief!

When are you coming up to the Alps this summer, Franco? There's an event in Chamonix on the 17th--the Everest evening--which my brother and I are going to, also quite a few other UKCers (I think Al is coming, and Billy Grant) so it might turn into a mini forum meet! Hopefully we'll bump into each other over there at some point anyway.