Thursday, 26 June 2008

Ravenswick- Dodgey Claims And Espionage

Me on 'Franco's Wall'

This time last week me and Dooge stumbled across a well-kept moors secret- Ravenswick quarry. The outcrop stretches over four buttresses and reaches a height of about 13 metres. Brilliant Limestone- solid, brilliant little edges. There were only about 8 routes recorded and me and Dooge couldn't believe people hadn't raved about the place. Admittedly it wasn't Malham Cove II, but for the moors it was a brilliant little outcrop and we did, what we thought was a first ascent of a 2 star E2 and various other routes, in the rain- it overhangs, so stays dry in the worst weather.

Then I publicised it's existence on UKC. I can honestly say (for once) my intentions were purely for the good of the crag but as always no one believed me and the claims came flooding in. At first a mate said he had climbed four of the routes- fair enough, so the first ascentionist were changed on Then some other geezer reckoned to have climbed almost every route there and said it was a pile of crap.
The 'Unconquerable' area
I was still not bothered about loosing all my first ascents, but someone slagging the place off angered me a little. I think it is one of the better outcrops of the moors- better for teaching climbing than anywhere else and there is a greater route selection than anywhere else around. Still, tis the way of the lakes and peak scene- to 'diss' our crags when their 'classic' Severes are in fact easy scrambles. ;-)

Never mind ey, I hope it will be published in the new definitive guide and maybe my stars will be reinstated.

A few non-first ascents we did that are good:
* Badger Crack 14m Severe *
*Right Unconquerable 13m VS 4c**
*Left Unconquerable 13m HVS 5a*
*Crystal Wall 13m Severe *
*Monograptus- Mod **
*Franco's Wall E2 5b**
*Bummelzug E3 5c *
We did a few more routes, but these were the classics of the crag. I can't recommend it enough. It aint the usual, 'tis awesome, even though it's a metre high and seeping like hell' but a really good crag with a 1 min approach time!


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