Saturday, 16 August 2008

Aguille de L'M

I arrived unfresh, after a 30 hour bus ride from Darlington, only to be dragged to 2,500 metres by Ian. He was eager to get climbing and dragged me up to the comfortable bivy spot under the impressive LM.

We were forced under a large boulder for the night when a wee bit of thunder came in. We woke up the next day and trotted round to the sunny NNE ridge for my first alpine route. 5-, should be oright on solo. I led the way up the easy slab and Ian followed up behind. I came across a dodgy section, a wide crack, Ian showed the skilless, but safe way, to thrutch up it and I copied his painful BETA. The NNE ridge was smote in about a 6th of guide book time and we made the easy decent for some food.

The couzy route was next- a UIAA 6. Ian said it was about HVS so we lopped the rope on. I led the crux pitch, but belayed half way through due to incompetence and rope drag. Ian ran up to the top and we were back down for some couscous and sausage.

Ian, not content with this fancied a look at Menegaux Route a 6+. we stormed to the top of the pillar, but then realised it was 9 O’clock. I felt bad stopping Ian having a crack at it, but the crux was high up and I had no head torch. An certain epic avoided there me thinks.

Another dodgy night was spent and then we trotted back to the valley for a bottle of red each- only €1.70 :-)

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