I was woken at 6 and up we got. For some reason we arsed about and weren't on the route until 11, but the laid-back atmosphere made for an awesome laugh.
Will and Tom set off first as the cumbrian team and the moors team of me, Luke and Ian followed closely behind. Me and Luke were rather hysterical and were singing rather a lot- putting Ian off on some of the harder moves. Then Luke snapped, a new speed demon was released. He took over the lead and our group of three became insanely slick- so slick we even overtook Will and Tom. Luke led the way, minimal gear placed, but moving amazingingly, shouting at anyone who wasted even a second. Ian followed ripping the gear out and putting Luke on belay for the next pitch as I legged it up behind, carrying the rather heavy bag. We got to the ledge in about an hour and a half, which was pretty good going considering there were a fair few pitches. We waited for Will and Tom and then had lunch.
We looked up at the last ten pitches, beautiful cracks. Luke and Will moved together to the top whilst Me, Ian and Tom brought the ropes up for them to ab. A few dodgy off-widths and Ian belaying mid-pitch wasted a bit of time, but we still got to the top with a few hours on guidebook time. We abseiled down in two groups, only to be re-united on the last belay ledge from the bottom.
Luke abed into the bergschrund and me, Will, Ian and tom waited on the ledge. Then something dodgy happened. The mountain started to shake and we took minimal cover.
The rope, Will was seconds from abseiling down on, was cut by a falling block and then a rock, no smaller than a couple of cars smashed into the Glacier leaving a huge crater. a lucky occasion, especially for Luke, who was surrounded by fragments of rock and a bag near-by had been badly ripped. We decided to run away from the route, dodging the still-falling rocks in a humorous style.
video to come!
video to come!