Monday, 29 September 2008

First ascent- 'Tell Chris Craggs Nowt' HVS 5b FFA- 'Terry's Dilema' E3 5c

I had sussed out Cringle crag on an afternoon off from college, noted the possibilities and returned with Dooge. The Main line we went to 'do the first ascent of', turned out to be wedge route (E4 6a) as what I had thought to be wedge route was in fact an A3. This meant the best line at the crag had already been climbed.

We looked around and spotted Terry's Dilemma (A2). It looked good, but slightly dirty. I had a massive epic abseiling down, as i had to pass a knot on an overhang without prussics! I finally finished cleaning, but it was still in a bad way. The start is very difficult as the initial swing out on to the roof is high and unprotected, you can then shove a size 2.5 cam in which protects the move over the roof to a further size 0.5 and 1.5 cams. From here a shallow jam and some sharp pockets lead to a less steep situation and all the gear you could want. A powerful and technical route, but well protected where you need it- just committing going out on to the roof! It goes at about E3 5c.

We then onsight soloed a wall that was on the higher teir without a route on it. Nice moves, with a technical hard 5a/ easy 5b start and then an exposed (but protectable) 4b finish. We gave it a star as it's such a brilliant feeling moving out onto the arete, with the view down to Wainstones and a nice 8 metre drop down to the steep hillside. Go to Cringle!

Numbers relate to route Discriptions here:

Wednesday, 24 September 2008

Rylstone- a few E2s and E3s

Dooge fancied Rylstone, so off we went. I warmed up on Pocket Battleship, a sound E3 6a. An interesting stiff pull on a terrible sloping hold led to a desperate slap into the break of Monument crack. After this we both led monument crack in good style- Dooge only placing 2 runners and myself getting an interesting no-hands rest.
We then moved on, and after a couple of solos of Dental Slab we both led Crazy Diamond and the Hot Line. Crazy Diamond was a great route- especially with my wrong and very sketchy finish. It ends up with a significant run out on a couple of pebbles. Don't go left!

We trotted over to do veteran and I failed on an E4. Nice though. And then finished with some night soloing of poetry in motion and the other one.

Monday, 22 September 2008

Gehenna- HVS 5a (moors HVS!)

Its reputation proceeded it as the solid, jamming test piece of the area and the ultimate proof that you are from the moors. It lived up to it's reputation- I wirte this with badly grazed hands- a true sign I can't jam. The battle was well fought and lasted a fair amount of time, slightly dirty and damp; the jams were slightly slippery and the move out of the niche, a true bastard. Still a fine route and another classic ticked.

In the true spirit of moors ultra-sandbagging though; I recon it's only VS. ;-)