Monday, 6 October 2008

First Ascent- Anyone's Daughter E3/E4 5c and Five-A-Side Finish E2 5b


We returned to Ingleby to finish 'the physical Graffiti Project' - no chance. Jesus it's hard. Must be hard 6b- a sort of high-footed dyno on absolutely shite holds for the start and then things get easier, just a pity we can't get off the ground!
We sloped off miserably and after Dave was forced to jump many metres off a HS! due to it being so dodgey; we wondered what we were going to get done. We then went to have a look at a project I had fancied for a while.
The easy slab- 5a, leads to a break with incredibly poor friends and then a seriously sketchy (and slightly muddy) move allows poor R.Ps to be arranged in the crack above. extremely stressful climbing then follows- hard moves above gear you really don't want to trust and the top out is slopey and sketchy. Luckily though it is quite escapeable rightwards -just before the R.Ps. (This is 'five-a-side finish' which Dooge later led). But once you're committed into the top finger crack of Anyone's Daughter it's a serious proposition with marginal gear. Nice route though, but couldn't warrant a star due to it's escapeability. Grade wise? Tricky, escapeable apart from the last desperate set of moves. The gear is probably oright, but looks real sketchy and shallow. My R.Ps weren't really in the crack so would have probably held sod all, but maybe you could wangle them in well (whilst petrified and getting pumped silly) the top move is hard 5c (very hard 5c probably 6a) a lob off would either result in a massive whipper, onto those dodgey cams, or a ground fall if they popped, but it's unlikely ALL your gear will pull so anywhere from E2 to E5 really- but tis escapeable....... I recon E3 is about right- based purely on how scared I felt at the time and I didn't realise it was escapeable! Grading is tricky ;-)

Sunday, 5 October 2008

The Nightwatch- Solo


An aim I'd had for a while and something I thought i needed to do as mental preparation for my project, The Nightwatch is perhaps one of the best lines in the moors. I was psyched for something 'out there', but backed off Jurassic Scarp When it was too horribly loose to warrant an attempt.

I then moved round the corner and set out on what was going to be a testing solo. Probably the most focused i had been since Silver Lining at Froggatt, I got to the first crux and after a scary moment with a suspect hold i managed to get established in the cave. From here I swung out right, via a couple of pockets and a crimp, a brilliant move in a very airy position. I was completely in the zone now, 20 metres below me 15 metres left, the tree at the top was getting nearer and every foot balanced the rest of me perfectly.
I topped out looking over the plateau below, what could be better?- Beautiful day, awesome solo, completely in control.