Saturday, 25 April 2009

Moonflower- E5 6b- scarily Onsight

Since the weeks of successive trips around the UK ceased; some months ago; me and my trusty Companion Dooge have done little of note. But today, armed with some very small wires and a new, adventurous approach to climbing, I had a gander at Moonflower- the route that has tormented me for so long.
I had the first couple of moves wired, due to the shared start with the ''direct'' version, but as soon as I arranged my couple of lonely wires I realise I didn’t have a clue what was coming. The crucial hold was green and witnesses spoke of my gradual slipping down the steep slab. I got Dave to lob up his toothbrush and I scrubbed away in a reasonably balancy setting, with the early signs of fear setting in.

The hold was clean and for once I had some chalk. I stretched for the completely useless dish and smeared my way deeper into fear, glancing down, seeing my distant directional RP and an even more distant belayer. One more pull on the dish and I managed to snatch a dirty but positive crimp. I realised I'd managed the route of a years effort and felt well chuffed :)

1 comment:

Les vagrants Francais said...

Nice route and good onsight! Link to our blog too if you like for tales of vagrancy and general climbing.