Monday, 15 June 2009

The Last Moors Classics Fall

Climbing Mongol the other week meant there was only a couple more routes left on my 'mega Moors-classic ticklist'- Warrior, Gym Junkies, BBC and Black Mamba.

On Saturday we wandered up to ingleby at a steady pace in the blazing sun. The imaculate butress of Gym Junkies met us with a pleasant cool wind and we racked up. Expecting an Epic E3 6b struggle I soloed up and place a bomber size 0 cam and nut 1 in the bottom of the crack. I had a good look at the route from the ground and got on it proper.

The pull over the roof was pleasantly straightforward, but I soon realised that a left hand in the good hold meant the crux would be really badly balanced. So I came back down a couple of feet and got the good slopery thing with my right, crossed through with my left then swung out right to a crimp with my right, popped my foot up and got established.

Jamming up Cosy Corner HS


I was slightly worried. That move was not 6b, I was in a precarious position and could only find shite wires. I popped one in and wondered how hard the next move must be to be 6b. I semi tugged the wire, wishing it to stay in and it seemed to stay, so I moved on. A bit of a step up and i reached the top.

It was a bit disappointing. I was expecting a nails and safe 6b, but instead got a runout 5c/6a. Dooge then led it and agreed it was nowhere near 6b, but not massively safe either. I abed for the gear and found a bomber size 1 peanut slot, that is quite hard to find, so perhaps Tony Marr worked it on the F.A?

bomber Tri Cam placement


We then went over to try the epically tricky 'Love or Confusion' -E4 6b. The start (that some have described as V7) went with some difficulty as you have to hang off a blunt arete and pop for a crimp. I then managed to use my long reach to place a size 4 cam with one finger in the obvious pocket to protect the next, smeary but easy move. From there It looks well hard. I managed to down climb, but the top move looks insanely hard, mantelling onto a crimpy sloper. Love or Confusion climbs the blunt left arete, tis good

Then High Crag called. The last Mega Classic- Warrior. Dooge took the Sharp end first and battled his way up the crack, quite impressively. Bomber cam after bomber hex followed through the slightly awkward, but not too pumpy crux. Leading to a damp top-out. My turn followed and it went quite well, battling through the thick midges; undercutting and jamming to glory.

We descovered some boulders south west of tarn hole as well. Some really good slabby problems of about V6/7+ and a couple a bit harder. There's a good roof jamming problem at about V4 and a cool dyno which is quite hard. Might be worth a look if you can boulder quite hard and tis only about a 30 min walk in.

Epic weekend, proper tired.

One of the moor top boulders- tis better, taller and harder than it looks.

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