Friday, 5 June 2009

Moors LGPs

Edit 2013: This is massively out of date and inaccurate. I've only kept this for amusement. The first two routes were climbed at E8 and E6!

With the recent good weather and a lot of time on my hands i've been visiting quite a few crags around and about and have noticed quite a few cool-looking routes. A lot of them aren't that hard, feel free to try them (onsight though).

Danby Crag-

The arete left of Bastile E4/5? 6b?

It looks like it'll be the best line at Danby (not saying much) with a flake that looks like it will take small wires just below half height and a couple of pockets to use on the right of the arete. Only seen from bottom

The Scoop just to the left E2/3? 5b/5c?

An interesting set of moves with very little gear. I tried to onsight this recently, but I ended up falling off about half way up and taking a 30ft whipper onto the belay, landing in a holly bush. Not the best line.

Beacon Scar-

The wall left of Mongol E4+/ HXS

A chossy set of cracks leads its way boldly up the wall, poor rock. The grade is a complete guess, viewed from the bottom.

The Wall right of Gehenna E5 6b?

Some good gear low down (mid tricam, rock 4 and odd 0.5 cam in shite rock) protects one hard move to a good hold, then there is some runout 6aish choss to the top crack and good gear. A fall from the chossy stuff is touch and go ground clipping from 40ft.

other crags-

The good line for locals- you know where E8+ 6c+

epically hard and desperate, aparently small cams protect. Richard Waterton says it's hard so probably not worth trying.

The wall- south of Beacon Scar E7+

A bit of a death route, either protectable with sky hooks or a peg, ethics ect.....

Looks hard, various people say it's 6cish, various finishes, direct or left, left is aparently harder?

Roseberry Face E4/5? 5c/6a?

This one isn't too much of a secret as you'd have to be from the moors to be mad enough to try it. Quite sustained and nice moves, up to a couple of 'stopper moves' I haven't done. Protected reasonably well with Tricams, although there is a mega run-out.

Unclimbed Arete - Round Crag E3 6b- apparently?

Adam Van Lopic reported this grade after top roping it. Seems very odd for the route, the start looks like the definate crux, but a fall from the start would result in serious injury. Probably more like E3 5c or E4 6a.

Whitestone Traverse E2 5c A1

a ten metre section that needs freeing. It could easily be done at a lower level, but in keeping with the origional line would be proper hard horribly lose 6a/b protected with gas pipes and a gas pipe belay.

So there you go the 9 moors LGP, i'll update it if I find any more.

Have fun!


Anonymous said...

Were you at Ravenswick at the weekend?

Franco Cookson said...

I am at ravenswick a lot. if you saw a guy who looked about 18, scruffy and soloing about it will most probably be me.

Anonymous said...

Yeah I think it was you, I have just started to climb outdoors and go there a lot thanks to your comments on the ukclimbing site. Its a great little place to make a start into the outdoors world :)