Friday, 5 June 2009

The Peak- The Snivelling Shits E5 6a

Arriving in the Peak late friday night and getting up early saturday morning, slightly cold in Burbage car park, we looked over the Peak. Burbage to our left, the faint beginings of Stanage to our right and the perfect hill of Higgar Tor directly ahead- We were meeting luke at millstone around 9. We were twitching with excitement though, so packed up the espace and drove to millstone, arriving about 6.30.
My aim for the trip was to do The snivelling shits, a very slabby route with painfully small holds. As a bit of an anticlimax I got on the route and through a series of about four, slightly sketchy, really cool moves reeched into the solitary pocket, sybolising safety with my number 4 cam. The nice people of UKC later informed me it wasn't onsight as i used a mat (mainly to keep my feet dry off the dewy ground) and as I had read the guidebook, which told me what size cam protected the top 4c moves. I'm happy with a highball v4 flash though, cause it was ace. :)
With painful fingers we met luke, equally twitching to get onto some E4s and E5s. He had his eye on Pool Wall at Laurencefield, so after a little bit of soloing, with Luke soloing Bond Street (impressive!), we left Dooge and Twig to do the classic Millstone routes.
Pool Wall is the Direct start to Suspense, a steady E2, with a pollished, tricky exit. Pool wall traverses out onto a wall and climbs via a faint line of crimps and a pocket, to join suspense just before this pollished finish. I was belaying, half attentive to jump into the pond if Luke fell from the run-out crux, half not wanting to lose my onsight. Luke ended up popping for a hold mid crux, scaring us all, but cruising the route. Nice to see someone climb a proper E5. With the sun shining ever-harder, friction routes were off the cards, so I tried Life assurance. Arsing about at the crux for a long time, I backed off- leaving it for another day. Luke cruised Boggat left hand and had a quick look at Balance it is, with an even quicker retreat. By which time it was late and we were hungry, so we retreated to our bivis. Day 2 met us with even more heat, a tactical crag choice of Bamford let me and Luke nip up Jet Runner and have a look at 'Trout' before the sun boiled us out. The traditional arsing around on gargoyle Flake was had, with a lot of ridiculous posing and then off to Froggat we went. Luke taking a few whippers off Strapadictomy and the E1 proving hard enough in terrible conditions. A little sesh on Artless unlocked the crux flashing it above a mat, but saved the top moves for another day and promptly downclimbed. A really good trip despite the lack of ticks and I now have even more on the ticklist!

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