Monday, 20 July 2009

The Hypocrisy Of Youth - NY Moors Projects.

I'd tried to onsight a couple of unclimbed lines at Danby Crag a few weeks back, resulting in humorous ground falls. The first was a poor, gearless scoop, the second was a brilliant arete. It is so unlike Danby to have this piercing fin rising out of the trees, and the climbing on it is ace. It looked from the ground to be about E4/5 6a/b, but luckily I retreated from the onsight and abseiled down it. A clean and feel of the holds and a play around with the gear shows the line for what it really is- doable apart from one move, a really hard (6c?)rockover above a dodgy Brassnut in a flexing flake. E7 6c?

I have to also admit to top roping Black Night (E5 6c, but now missing crucial peg) at the Wainstones- given 6c, but more like 6b, should go at E6.

There is now also a stake above the obvious Claybank arete, which i've had a little abseil down as well. The top move looks possible, but very hard (v8 or something) and the gear is ace- a bomber size 0.5 cam a little distance away and a poor size 0 friend right by the crux. I probably still wouldn't like to fall on them though, due to how intimidating this line really is. Maybe H9 7a?

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