Sunday, 19 July 2009

Skyhooks and Slate and a Dabble in the Peak

Peak conditions were poor, but I managed a quick onsight solo of Impossible Slab (E3 5c ***), failed on Quietus (depressing) and then made myself feel better by soloing everything insight and onsighting the classic Stanage E4 5c ***, Old Friends (tricky friend placement). We hung around in the peak for another day, going to 'Cliffhanger', then left for some proper climbing.

The Lakes met us with bad weather and every morning for 4 days it rained, a lot. Mornings were spent skyhook shopping, whilst the afternoons brightened up and we managed to tick most of the classics on hodge Close main wall- Ten years after, Wicked Willy, The Main Event and Mallice in wonderland sans tree (not deliberately without the tree)(E4 5c, E5 6b, E5+ 6a, E3+ 5c). The car then broke down and we had to come home.

There are some issues with retrobolting at hodge- whoever placed the bolt on the top of ten years after and Wicked Willy seems to have missed bomber natural protection (good skyhooks and friends).

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