Thursday, 13 August 2009

Best Moors Routes List

Unrelated video

I'm getting rather homesick so thought i'd compile a 'top 5 routes at every grade' list.

(guidebook Grade) [actual grade]

1)Highcliffe Crack [HS 4b]
2)Sphinx Traverse [HS 4b]
3)Jordu [Severe]
4)Wings [Severe]
5)Airlift [Severe]

1)Forest Face (HS 4b) [HS 4c]
2)Cosy Corner (HS 4a) [HS 4b]
3)Birdland Direct (MVS 4b) [HS 4b]
4)Moanin' (HS 4b) [HS 4b]
5)Beak Ridge (HS 4b) [HS 4b]

1)The Nightwatch (VS 4b) (the best pitch in the country!) [VS 4b]
2)Frenesi (VS 4c) [HVS 5a]
3)The Leash (VS 4c) [VS 4c]
4)Last Post (VS 4c) [HVS 4c]
5)Groovesology (VS 5a) [VS 5a]

1)Central Crack (HVS 5a)- Whitestone [HVS+ 5a]
2)Gehenna (HVS 5a-hahahaha!) [E1 5b]
3)Hari Kiri (HVS 5a) [HVS- 5a]
4)Countdown (HVS 5a) [HVS+ 5a]
5)Top Gun (HVS 5a) [E1 5b]

1)The Skab Direct (E1 5b) [E1 5b]
2)Satchmo (E1 5c) [E2 5c]
3)Accelerator (E1 5b) [given HVS in the guide more like E1+ 5b]
4)Wombat (E1 5b) [E1 5b]
5)Scarecrow Crack (E1 5b) [E1- 5b]

1)Mongol (E2 5c) [E2 5c]
2)Fever Pitch (E2 5b) [E2+ 5c]
3)BBC (E2 5c) [E3 6a or harder- straight over roof]
4)Black Mamba (E2 5c) [E3/4 5c]
5)Blitzkrieg (E2 5c) [E3+ 6a]

1)West Sphinx Direct (E3 5b) [E3+ 5c]
2)Ali Baba (E3 5c) [(given E2)E3- 5c]
3)Bivi (E3 5c) [E3+ 5c/6a]
4)Jurassic Scarp (E3 5b) [E3- 5b]
5)Gym Junkies (E3 6b) [E3- 6a]

1)Stargazer (E4 6a) [Given E3 5c, but mid E4]
2)Terrorist (E4 5c! (more like hard 6a)) [E5 6a]
3)Wedge Route (E4 6a) [E4 6a]
4)Screwed (E4 6b) [E5 6b]
5)Waves Within (E4 6a) or Love or Confusion (E4 6b) [E4+ 6b]

1)Stratagem (E5 6b) [E5+ 6b, given E4 6b]
2)The Arete at Ravensdale (E5 6a) [E5+ 6a]
3)Roseberry Face (E5 6a) [E5- 6a]
4)Stargazer Direct (E5 6a) [E5- 6a, given E4]
5)Moonflower (E5 6b) [E5- 6b]


  1. Original Sin (E6 6c) [E6 6c] - Unchecked
  2. Desperate Den (E5 6c) [E6 6c]
  3. Three Screaming Popes (E6 6c) [E6 6c] - unchecked
  4. Scut di Scun Ai (E6 6b) [E6/7 6b] - Dirty


1)Magic in the Air (E7 6b) [Given E6, no gear]
2)Esmerelda (E7 6c) [ E7+ 6c]
3) Chi Ching (E6 6c) [E7 6c]
4)The Arete- Danby?
5)Black Night (E5 6c) [E7+ 6c- unclimbed without peg]


  1. The groove- Kepwick?
  2. The Arete- Ravenscar?

This list was compiled with the help and comments from around 10 local climbers. I don't agree with all the positioning, but is about right. Interestingly only 24 out of the 51 routes listed here feature in the latest rockfax guide......

Sunday, 9 August 2009

Desperate Den (E6 6c) Onsight Attempt

The epic direct start to Stargazer (E4 6a) is the one of the most impressive and obvious lines at Highcliffe, ascending the blank wall via a couple of imperfections.
I've wanted to get on it for a while and managed to flash the moves to the line of crimps (the crux) then retreated back to the ground. It felt pretty cool figuring a 6c move out ground-up, especially this one; which requires a fair bit of contortion and a massive reach.

Tendons hurt. I will be back with a rope to finish the top moves.