Thursday, 13 August 2009

Best Moors Routes List

Unrelated video

I'm getting rather homesick so thought i'd compile a 'top 5 routes at every grade' list.

(guidebook Grade) [actual grade]

1)Highcliffe Crack [HS 4b]
2)Sphinx Traverse [HS 4b]
3)Jordu [Severe]
4)Wings [Severe]
5)Airlift [Severe]

1)Forest Face (HS 4b) [HS 4c]
2)Cosy Corner (HS 4a) [HS 4b]
3)Birdland Direct (MVS 4b) [HS 4b]
4)Moanin' (HS 4b) [HS 4b]
5)Beak Ridge (HS 4b) [HS 4b]

1)The Nightwatch (VS 4b) (the best pitch in the country!) [VS 4b]
2)Frenesi (VS 4c) [HVS 5a]
3)The Leash (VS 4c) [VS 4c]
4)Last Post (VS 4c) [HVS 4c]
5)Groovesology (VS 5a) [VS 5a]

1)Central Crack (HVS 5a)- Whitestone [HVS+ 5a]
2)Gehenna (HVS 5a-hahahaha!) [E1 5b]
3)Hari Kiri (HVS 5a) [HVS- 5a]
4)Countdown (HVS 5a) [HVS+ 5a]
5)Top Gun (HVS 5a) [E1 5b]

1)The Skab Direct (E1 5b) [E1 5b]
2)Satchmo (E1 5c) [E2 5c]
3)Accelerator (E1 5b) [given HVS in the guide more like E1+ 5b]
4)Wombat (E1 5b) [E1 5b]
5)Scarecrow Crack (E1 5b) [E1- 5b]

1)Mongol (E2 5c) [E2 5c]
2)Fever Pitch (E2 5b) [E2+ 5c]
3)BBC (E2 5c) [E3 6a or harder- straight over roof]
4)Black Mamba (E2 5c) [E3/4 5c]
5)Blitzkrieg (E2 5c) [E3+ 6a]

1)West Sphinx Direct (E3 5b) [E3+ 5c]
2)Ali Baba (E3 5c) [(given E2)E3- 5c]
3)Bivi (E3 5c) [E3+ 5c/6a]
4)Jurassic Scarp (E3 5b) [E3- 5b]
5)Gym Junkies (E3 6b) [E3- 6a]

1)Stargazer (E4 6a) [Given E3 5c, but mid E4]
2)Terrorist (E4 5c! (more like hard 6a)) [E5 6a]
3)Wedge Route (E4 6a) [E4 6a]
4)Screwed (E4 6b) [E5 6b]
5)Waves Within (E4 6a) or Love or Confusion (E4 6b) [E4+ 6b]

1)Stratagem (E5 6b) [E5+ 6b, given E4 6b]
2)The Arete at Ravensdale (E5 6a) [E5+ 6a]
3)Roseberry Face (E5 6a) [E5- 6a]
4)Stargazer Direct (E5 6a) [E5- 6a, given E4]
5)Moonflower (E5 6b) [E5- 6b]


  1. Original Sin (E6 6c) [E6 6c] - Unchecked
  2. Desperate Den (E5 6c) [E6 6c]
  3. Three Screaming Popes (E6 6c) [E6 6c] - unchecked
  4. Scut di Scun Ai (E6 6b) [E6/7 6b] - Dirty


1)Magic in the Air (E7 6b) [Given E6, no gear]
2)Esmerelda (E7 6c) [ E7+ 6c]
3) Chi Ching (E6 6c) [E7 6c]
4)The Arete- Danby?
5)Black Night (E5 6c) [E7+ 6c- unclimbed without peg]


  1. The groove- Kepwick?
  2. The Arete- Ravenscar?

This list was compiled with the help and comments from around 10 local climbers. I don't agree with all the positioning, but is about right. Interestingly only 24 out of the 51 routes listed here feature in the latest rockfax guide......


流浪汉 瑜伽 Yoga Tramp said...

Today (6.30am) the sky is still darkness but we already on the way to climbing mountain. This is a dangerous road , die the most cruel death if fall down overhanging . We can't see our hand, sometime we move left hand will touch owl, move right hand will touch snake. Sometime the cool wind is come, 14th July is due (chinese ghost day), i think is "brother & sister" follow us climbing mountain.

Anonymous said...

Have you quit climbing Franco? I miss your refreshing posts

ram-man said...

Nice list. What have you got against Ch-Ching though, just out of interest? I think it's a good route, slightly contrived at one point but worth a star or two, definitely by moors standards anyway....?

Franco Cookson said...

Yeh, that was forgotten off the list of E7s. Sorry. As you may of guessed we put in all the E6s and E7s as the moors doesn't have a huge choice at that grade.

I can't really comment as I haven't done it, but it seems a little bit like a non-route? A really good highball boulder prob, that leads into easy climbing and then an unnatural finish? I'm probably wrong though.

ram-man said...

Yeah, you're right really. It is more or less just a highball, though the last hard move with the sloping landing feels quite committing even with pads....
The finish is just totally arbitary. For me, Ch-ching finishes at the ledge. Whether you finish up stratagem, satchmo, down stratagem or just lower off, it doesn't really matter.

Good bit of climbing though!

Franco Cookson said...

Yeh, I should have a look over Christmas. The Arête's where it's at though!