Thursday, 26 November 2009

Indoor Seshes- F8a

Going for a F7c+ at Sunderland Wall
I've always hated indoor walls, but of late I've been getting down to the Manchester Climbing centre a fair bit. It's an OK wall, with a really nice lead wall and a mix of grades up to about 8a.

I've been getting a lit stronger with the indoor steepness and it's quite funny how you can get into really trying your hardest in a non-outdoor setting. Today I managed to link the F8a on lead, which was pretty cool as it's well set and pretty much at my limit (even though it's quite soft).

Some valiant flash attempts were made by Tony Stone and Luke, who both almost did it (Tony touching the last hold!).

The walls getting reset this week so I can start the intense seshes all over again :)

Tuesday, 3 November 2009

Danby Crag New Routing- A new E3, E8?, E10?

The last few times I've been to Danby I've been thoroughly disheartened by the danger, difficulty and conditions of the new-routing potential, but today conditions were surprisingly good, and a little progress was made.

I quickly found an easy solution to the unclimbed twin aretes buttress, via a meandering route, which starts up 'the arete' until it is possible to traverse left at about 6a, before being able to finish up the left arete. The hard start is protected by the good tricam on 'The Arete' , But the finish is bolder and easy.

Then I set about the real challenge- the Arete. Conditions were good enough to do all the lower two thirds of the route in one push at sustained 6a/b climbing in a safish situation- E5/6. Just as you get out of reach of the saftey of the tricam, the square-cut arete kicks back and it's awkward, very thin and leaning. The move from here involves a really thin high foot and lunge to a good pocket. Another 6c move which is beyond me on lead at the moment, but is fun to try. Probably E8ish.

The slab to the left is even bolder and harder than the arete.


Next season the moors will be getting some new routes......

Monday, 2 November 2009

Black Knight is Nails

E5 6c in the guide. The obvious, but contrived challenge of the Sphinx's nose was originally climbed with a peg.
A little play on a top rope showed how wild the move really was. If this really was climbed in '86 it was pretty ahead of it's time, with a boulder problem crux of at least V7 and ludicrously wild. Even with a peg, the move is so out there that E5 is a total Sandbag. I'd love to see someone onsight this, probably just about possible under current limits, but way, way harder than E5.

We finished off the day with some bouldering; discovering a couple of problems that were quite nice and tricky and meeting THE other group of moors activists, finally. (their picture above)