I quickly found an easy solution to the unclimbed twin aretes buttress, via a meandering route, which starts up 'the arete' until it is possible to traverse left at about 6a, before being able to finish up the left arete. The hard start is protected by the good tricam on 'The Arete' , But the finish is bolder and easy.
Then I set about the real challenge- the Arete. Conditions were good enough to do all the lower two thirds of the route in one push at sustained 6a/b climbing in a safish situation- E5/6. Just as you get out of reach of the saftey of the tricam, the square-cut arete kicks back and it's awkward, very thin and leaning. The move from here involves a really thin high foot and lunge to a good pocket. Another 6c move which is beyond me on lead at the moment, but is fun to try. Probably E8ish.
The slab to the left is even bolder and harder than the arete.
Next season the moors will be getting some new routes......