Tuesday, 3 November 2009

Danby Crag New Routing- A new E3, E8?, E10?

The last few times I've been to Danby I've been thoroughly disheartened by the danger, difficulty and conditions of the new-routing potential, but today conditions were surprisingly good, and a little progress was made.

I quickly found an easy solution to the unclimbed twin aretes buttress, via a meandering route, which starts up 'the arete' until it is possible to traverse left at about 6a, before being able to finish up the left arete. The hard start is protected by the good tricam on 'The Arete' , But the finish is bolder and easy.

Then I set about the real challenge- the Arete. Conditions were good enough to do all the lower two thirds of the route in one push at sustained 6a/b climbing in a safish situation- E5/6. Just as you get out of reach of the saftey of the tricam, the square-cut arete kicks back and it's awkward, very thin and leaning. The move from here involves a really thin high foot and lunge to a good pocket. Another 6c move which is beyond me on lead at the moment, but is fun to try. Probably E8ish.

The slab to the left is even bolder and harder than the arete.


Next season the moors will be getting some new routes......

7 comments:

ram-man said...

nice work! I wish it wasn't winter on the moors!

Franco Cookson said...

Winter's where it's at man. Well not really, but you can still climb the odd thing. I reckon the Danby arete will be dry through winter.

ram-man said...

cool, cheers for sharing! I'd like to go for a look - the moors potential new route list is growing quite long.

Franco Cookson said...

There's tonnes. Even once the big 4 go, there's still a load that needs doing at Ravensdale, Danby and stuff that can be squeezed in at roseberry, ingleby, round crag and cringle moor. The moors is a good place to be!


I wish i had been climbing as well as I am now when i lived there.

Franco Cookson said...

*PLEASE NOTE*

I named the E3 'The Sandbagger' as it's no way E3. If you attempt this route onsight it would be advisable to be competent at hard English 6a in a bold setting.

:)

Anonymous said...

cock

Franco Cookson said...

care to elaborate?