Monday, 14 December 2009

Dry Rock Found! - Scale the Dragon E5 6b

Dan Lane Collection- Bouldering at the Roaches- Video Still.

Two dryish days meant that dry rock was a real possibility on the Saturday morning. Me and Dan made plans for a Hobson assault- a quarry that is likely to be dry in all but the worst conditions. We arrived early in the morning with the hill haze still clearing, leaving a beautiful clear, crisp day.

We sluggishly got round to doing some routes; fighting the cold and getting on 'Dragon's Route' (E3 5c). It went well, with the technical difficulties feeling a long way within my ability, which is always good. As I topped out the sun started to come round and warm the frosted quarry and you could sense the evaporation.

Dan Lane Collection- Dan's Woodie.

The sun broke onto the main wall, meaning that you could hang around and not loose the feeling in your fingers. Dan was still cold so I jumped on 'Scale the Dragon' (E5 6b). It looked dry and all the way up to the mid-height break it was. I arranged a tricam and some friends and then downclimbed a little way for a rest. The break didn't dry out and it made the crux moves very difficult as it relies on some micro-crimps which aren't too good when greasy. After a lot of hanging about and pulling a pair of trousers up from the ground to dry the holds I got quite pumped, which made the crux feel tricky.
Dan Lane Collection (vid still)

Fatigued and wet, the crux only just went, with a sketchy chalk up halfway through a sequence that you don't really want to stop on. The easy top was even wetter, but a sneaky peak down to my distant gear kept me on.

After a few E2s in big boots it got dark and we went home. Great to get on some rock, even if we didn't do anything too major!

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