Monday, 7 December 2009

Strong, Psyched, But No Dry Rock!

I've been psyched for months now, really eager to get out on real cliffs, with real rock, real run outs and real fear. I'm also stronger than i've ever been -flashing the relatively low grade of F7b+ at the wall the other day, which for me is Sharma-strong. Unfortunately the rain is still a-pounding and the crags seeping terribly.
Dan Lane Collection
I managed to get to the Roaches at the weekend, really psyched for Barriers in Time (E6 6b). It looked like a great first E6 onsight, but was totally wet. I then lowered my objective to Wings of Unreason (E4 6a) which was even wetter. Even the bouldering was wet. We eventually found one dry slab where we spent the day trying no hands problems.
Dan Lane Collection
And you wonder why the UK has no good climbers! ;-)


George Taylor said...

I thought Desperate Den was your first E6 onsight as per the pic above???

Franco Cookson said...

Desperate Den is a direct start to an E4. I have only soloed up to where it meets the E4 so technically haven't done the whole route. I also proposed a bouldering grade for desperate Den as you could probably walk away from a fall if you rolled a fair bit.

Dave Warburton said...

Plus, technically speaking - Desperate Den is E5 ;-)

Franco Cookson said...

It's actually E6 these days dooge.