Tuesday, 26 January 2010

Ravensdale Action

I'd forgotten how good Ravensdale was- why has no one climbed these routes before? I'm actually amazed. The routes feel pretty big when you're on them- as big as the parts of Highcliffe which are climbable anyway; and the climbing is really superb.

I was alone, but still managed an FA of a poor slab (severish) soloing and then abed down a hanging crack to the left. It looks tricky and the gear is perfect, on bomber weathered sandstone. Probably around E3 6a, but stiff at that. It would have been a brilliant route, but alas the start was a bit rubbish, so probably only worthy of a lone star.


I then abed down what I refer to as 'Walrus Buttress', at the opposite side of the crag to have a look at potential there. I couldn't be arsed to pull all the grass out of 'on crack' (E4ish) so went about shunting the scoop to the left of 'Central Crack'. Me and dooge always thought it would be a bit 'Time for Teaesque', with gear far out right and some groovy moves up the scoop with a big run-out. Unlike 'Time for Tea' I soon realised the moves were dynamic and slopey and nails. I managed to link it though, which gave some really good sustained climbing and took me ages to find a sequence. E7 6b?

So basically what I thought was a HVS turned out to be E2 (central Crack), What I thought was E1 is more like E4 (On Crack) and what I thought was E3 is more like E7 (The Scoop). God knows how hard the difficult-looking lines are.

4 comments:

ram-man said...

what's the black line on the boulder? Did you try any of Lee's problems? He said someone's been chipping the boulders but 'thoughtfully' to yield good problems... hmmmm

Looks like Ravenscar is safe from your metal work for the time being then!?

Franco Cookson said...

The Black line is an ultra highball problem/ route. Looks like sort of V7ish to like an english 6b top out, would be cool to do ground up........

I've tried a few problems, a couple which were lees and very good. The chipping is very new and yes it has basically made impossible walls into good problems. Still not sure I agree with it though.....

The routes here are more my style (and grade ;)) compared to ravenscar. Feel free to pop by and have a shunt. Don't do the scoop or the wall to the right though please. :-)

ram-man said...

don't worry, they're safe from me - got more than enough moors projects to be on with when I'm back! I visited the place a while back by myself, winter 2008/9 I think and it was freezing. Enjoyed a couple of the problems but couldn't get warmed up really. Been on the list to head back for another look at the boulders for a while though. Maybe try the arete too, looks good.

Franco Cookson said...

I'm joking, there's plenty of hardish routes to go around. The arete is really quite nice- take a crowbar and leaver the ring bolts out. :-)