Wednesday, 27 January 2010

Ravensdale Mini Guide

Ravensdale

Situation and Character

A man-made quarry with two huge boulders on the quarry floor and a quarry wall rising to approximately 10-15 metres tall and spanning 200 metres of hillside. With beautiful views over Robin Hoods bay and out into the north sea, it makes for a pleasant day out on a sunny day.

History

It would appear as if there has been a lot of abseiling or top roping at the quarry for some time, although the first routes were not recorded until 1996, when A.Griffiths and Party ascended two lines up that largest boulder ‘Barry’. There was no more action at the crag until 2009, except for the bolting of two routes by unknown parties. The crag was then visited by D.Warburton and F.Cookson who recorded the first routes on the quarry walls, with the quality ‘Central Crack’ and ‘The Arete’. Little more has been recorded at the crag, despite the obvious easy cracklines and hard, bold faces. A definite playground for future activists.

Access and Approaches

Follow Signs to Ravenscar (not the Hasty Bank one!) off the A171 8 miles south of Whitby. Follow the signs to Ravenscar, turning left at every opportunity. Turn left at a windmill towards the obvious mast and down the hill for approximately a mile until a lay-by on the right and the quarry on the left is apparent, The quarry is a two minute walk from the lay-by, via a path cut through the jungle of Gorse. If the Lay-by is full (it won’t be) another layby is situated a little distance down the track that branches off left 20 metres further down.

The Walrus Wall

Perhaps the best climbing on the cliff, with brilliant bold and difficult face climbing twinned with some excellent cracks and the classic Arete.



The left wall 7m grade?

The line of Bolts (!?) at the far left-hand side of the quarry. A poor line.

Unknown

On Crack 12m E4 6a?

The left hand diagonal crack is thinner and steeper than it’s counterpart.

Unclimbed

Between ‘On Crack’ and ‘The White Scoop’ is an obvious wall which is even more obviously lacking in gear. The faint trail of holds would suggest it is possible, although certainly harder than ‘The Scoop’.

The White Scoop 13m E7 6b **

The Scoop is gained from 4 metres up Central Crack (last runner) and is followed throughout. A sustained route, with a definite sequence. Begging for the bold direct start.

Shunted Only

Central Crack 14m E2 5c **

The obvious central crack to the right of an orange roof is climbed, leading to difficult bridging moves up the scoop. Finish direct and fast. Protection is perfect.


Franco Cookson, Dave Warburton 02/Jul/2009

Another face with a rickety flake at half height, that would take RPs. Technical difficulties likely to be around 6b, and with potential for a few variations.

The Arête 12m E5 6a **

Stunningly sustained and reachy arête climbing. Great position, shame its not at Scugdale or Ravenscar etc. Unfortunately bolted, which makes the Climb (F6c+) as it's a clip up. Soloed at E5 6a.

Franco Cookson 02/Jul/2009

The Bay

The central walls encompass the buttresses between ‘The Arete’ and ‘The Right Flank’. They have some easier cracks and impossible-looking slabs and walls. No routes have been recorded despite the obvious potential.



The Right Flank

These are the buttresses at the far right-hand end of the quarry. The only part of the quarry to contain some suspect rock.

The Bar Steward 12m E3 5c *

The classic hanging jamming crack with a ‘big feel’. Situated 20 metres to the left of Seaside Slab and gained by a poor start up the slabby Scoop. Crying out for the obvious start up the finger crack to the right.

Shunted only

Slab 10m Severe

The wrinkled slab at the extreme right-hand side of the quarry with some snappy rock.

Franco Cookson Solo 21/01/2010

The Boulders

The Larger Boulder (Barry)

1. Barry the Boulder E4 6a

Steep and powerful moves up the undercut arête on the landward face.

Andrew Griffiths, Mick Taylor 7th July 1996

2. Barry not very Bold E1 6a

Tackle the seaward face of the boulder just left of the undercut face.

Andrew Griffiths solo 7th July 1996

The smaller Boulder (Bervert)

The Crack V7

The crack on the wall facing Barry gets harder as you get higher.

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