Saturday, 27 March 2010

Roseberry and Ravenscar arete linked.

Day one back in the moors. Linked a total choss route at roseberry (E6 5b) and the direct finish to Pasketti on ab (e6 6b).

Then crashed my bike on the way to Wainstones. Got to ravenscar and figured out the BETA for the arete. Well psyched. Did all the crux moves. Lets get on leaaaaddd. E8 7a anyone? Foykin cool moves, Steve ramsdens BETA seems to avoid the arete a bit but still three stars on wild pops between poor holds.

Allleeeezzzz, gonna go. :-)


ram man said...

Good stuff getting on this, this sucker's long overdue getting climbed. What's your sequence from the jug on the arete to the top then? (Well, would be interested to hear your sequence to get to the jug on the arete too!) Good climbing in't it.

Impressed you managed to actually access the moves on a shunt!

Ps. Better be quick if you're going to do it (unless you bag it up today), elbows nearly good enough to climb on again ;)

Pps. E8 7a? Not true!

Franco Cookson said...

Sequene form the jug:

left hand on jug, right on mono. right foot in hole down and right. Right hand up to slopey side pull. Rearrange foot in pocket, up to good sidepull. feet up and left foot lock in the jug, wild lunge to undercut side pull with right hand. Left hand up to rubbish sloper and then straight up to good edge above the little roof. Match edge and smear feet. Up tot he top.

It's quite scary on a shunt! and I didn't do the first bit as assumed that would be easier?

It felt 6c/7a to me, the gear is sort of OK, but from the crux you'll be taking a missive whipper into satchmo. It's pretty sustained as well.

What's your sequence and grade guess?

Good Luck. I'd be happy with the second ascent.

ram man said...

I think the first section has physically the hardest single move though it's less technical than the higher bits you've done. Doubt it'll cause you any problems. The thing I found with it was that as well as tiring you a little, if it's cold, the small holds (which you have to pull pretty hard hard on) make for numb tips on arrival at the jug which isn't ideal.

Yeah, your sequence sounds pretty similar to mine - nice work figuring it out quick! I guess the crucial bits of beta come down to shoving right foot down in the pocket to get out right and then the left heel-toe/foot lock on the jug. Obviously, bouncing out right doesn't really stick to arete like you said but once I found you could get out to those decent holds it seemed to evolve into being the best solution for that section of unclimbed rock. For me anyway.... I'm sure rigidly sticking to the arete is possible but I guess it could be rendered a bit of an eliminate since you could go out right to our sidepulls and get back left again without leaving the arete.

Anyway, my sequence goes like:
left hand jug, right hand mono, drop right foot into pocket, slap right hand to flat edge/crimp (the one you stand on on stratasgem), adjust right foot, go again with right hand to sidepull. build feet then left foot heel-toe on jug. Left hand up to sloper, change left heel to toe, bump right hand into next sidepull up, right foot up and then get decent holds and thence the top, via optional wire in top of sratagem.

Was only joking with my ps's... Not really sure what grade it is. Spicy ~F7cish climbing - I'd plump for E7 6c. It's harder than Ch-ching.

I'd be happy with a second ascent too - or any ascent, just can't wait to climb on it again and do it!

There's another cool link to do too. You can keep going right from the arete all the way into stratagem and then up that. Not as good but probably harder. Essentially Stratagem indirect, I dubbed it 'stitch'. Linked it on top rope - it's exhausting.

The overhanging wall straight above the hanging flake (immediately right of satchmo) looks awesome. A bit futuristic, but there are holds!

Franco Cookson said...

Yeh. Another thing that looked interesting was directly up to the jug via that hole. A bit ridiculous and bold, but could go?

That arete is so wicked. The main reason i reckoned it would be E8 is that no one could onsight it surely? It's totally outrageous.

Quite excited like. Although rain for the next 3 days.