Friday, 30 April 2010

Stubai Hornets Modified

Getting a bit off route on Magic crack made me realise that climbing technical ground with leashed axes is not only sketchy, but pretty dangerous. Hence I have now modified these beautiful tools to try something hard this winter. They feel good and I fancy my chances of putting up something tricky.

Tuesday, 20 April 2010

Back to Manchester And Moosey Thoughts

So a semi-successful trip back to the moors is over. Apart from 'The Hypocrisy of Moose' not much was really achieved. I've sussed out a lot of crags, projects and even seen the delights of Moors' bouldering at last. I've tried some stuff that seemed impossible (but then again 'The Moose' seemed impossible when I first tried it); realised that some of what I thought were 'last great problems' were pretty poor and even found a load more lines which look like they're pretty cool.

I suppose I should briefly explain why I called the arete 'The Hypocrisy of Moose'. Rather simple really- the ascent showed me for the Hypocritical Moose I am. Anyway, a big gap now and everything else I was trying in the moors seems a little easy and chossy in comparrison.

So the list of LG(perhaps not that great)Ps in the Moors currently stands at:

*The Arete at Ravenscar direct - H9 7a? *** (attempted on shunt)

The straightening-out of Steve's new E7+ would mean you'd be almost soloing the crux of his route, plus with a nails set of moves to get there.

*The Groove at Kepwick- H8/9 6c ** (linked on top rope)

F7cish to a V7 finish. One good Skyhook, serious possibility of injury. Ace climbing, poor setting.

*Gehenna Wall- E6/7 6b/c * (abed)

Chossy, but a good line. The holds will only hold about 40 kilos.

*The Scoop at Stoupe Brow- E7 6b/c *** (abed and shunted the crux)

Ace moves at around F7b+ with a massive but safish fall. Breaks out left from central crack.

A few routes that need doing but aren't really amazing (although quite good):

The finger Crack at Clemmitt's - E4/5 6b **- abed
Porcupine Arete, Snotterdale- E6 6b *-climbed a tree next to it
The Aid Line Kay Nest- E6 6c? - ground inspected
On crack Stoupe Brow- E5 6b ** - ground inspected

Choss not worth doing:

Mongol wall- E9?
Death arete- Danby- E8 6b?
The Roof crack at Middlehead- E4?
The wall at Oak crag- V9

Monday, 12 April 2010

Saturday, 10 April 2010

Danby Arete Goes H7 6c (E8?) *** - The Hypocrisy Of Moose

Last Moves (Betaguides)

It felt easy on lead- without the pull from the shunt unbalancing me on the super tenuous crux. A real classic I reckon, with sustained 6b climbing leading to a couple of moves of hard 6c. Feels a bit strange to be headpointing, but it's probably harder than anyone could onsight anyway and it's good to try new things.

Crux (Betaguides)

Grading is difficult as it depends on how bomber you think the RP flake is. It's definately a lot harder than the few E6s I've done and very blind and sequencey. For the onsight i'd say it's worth E8, but for my effort probably a little less. Hopefully someone can come and repeat it and tell me if it's soft or stiff. I'm happy now :-D.

I must thank Victor Scott, who supplied me with RPs and a new chalk bag- most kind and Lee Robinson for filming it. We had a great day, with a little bouldering and then arete magic.

Video to come.

Friday, 9 April 2010

Die Projekte

A truly great day today. An hour's shunting on the Danby arete felt easy. I didn't fall off any of the moves at all, which is incredible considering I only figured out the crux a day ago and could only do it 1/10 tries. I might get on the lead tomorrow- excited!
I've also been back to Ravenscar had a little bash at Stratagem (failed) and then a short shunting sesh on the arete, with Dooge taking pictures. Unfortunately my harness wasn't done up properly so I couldn't shunt it properly. Psyched for Danby though!

Tuesday, 6 April 2010

Choss Whippers on Moors Limestone

We went to Whitestone. Dave got scared at the sight of Black Mamba. We retreated to Peak Scar.
I had a look at BBC. Dave wasn't psyched to get on it, so off I trotted up. ran the two pitches together- placing no gear in the easier first pitch. Got up to the roof, Bomber thread, clipped a crap peg, out to a good hex. Went for the roof, got over the lip, going for a more direct right line (apparently the route goes up the left arete) I ended up on untrodden rubish crimps, which proptly broke off and I ended up falling below the first belay in a shower of choss.

I haven't fallen off an 'E2' for a while, but I managed to persuade myself it was a slightly different line and promptly went for my second go; left up the arete and flashed the cool moves up to the top, if not a bit wet. Excllent turf up top.

Sunday, 4 April 2010

Desperendum E2 5c And Danby Arete Improvements

MVS Arete
Another day of intermitent showers. Dave was busy with his family so I went for a quick shunting session on the Danby arete. I expected it to be a mass of sodden crap, but was plesently surprised how the winter weather has cleaned all the dust off it (from my cleaning). With really good conditions and a little more boulder power than last time I tried it, I soon worked out a better sequence for the crux, with a cool double 'gaston' move. It's going to be hard- harder single move than the arete at ravenscar- so probably E8 6c, protected by an ok tricam at a third height. The ground is nicely steep and soft though.
MVS Arete

It then rained and I returned home, only to head back out to 'Snotterdale' with Dooge. An awful name for a crag and in general the route quality is poor, but there is an ok MVS and a really good E2 5c called Desperendum. Really nicely pumpy and beautifully protected, with good, spaced finger locks. I abed down the arete to the left to see if it would go as an FA, but the top was massively dirty and it looked like a one mover at a bold 6b sort of grade.

Returned home and had some Yorkshire Puddings. Bon.

Friday, 2 April 2010

Stoupe Brow- New HVS and Re-grading.

Another day at Stoupe Brow, this time a little wet but calm. I must say it's more plesent being there on a calm day. Doogie led me up a new jamming crack which was soaking, but would be a very nice route in the dry. Bits of turf here and there, but not in the crack, so the beautiful jamming wasn't effected. We called it 'the Gulls of Naverone', which I found hilarious.

I then abed down 'The White Scoop', which was wet- annoying as I was psyched for the lead. Dooge then had an epic onsight ascent of my Central Crack (E2 5c) and after I seconded it again, we agreed it was more like E3 6a ** as the crux is pretty hard.
Abing down the wall right of the crack; which I dubbed Albatross Travels; I found a cool line of spaced crimps with no gear for 10 metres; which should give a cool new E7 and is probably the best route at the crag. A crag that just keeps giving, hopefully we'll get something hard done soon.

Thursday, 1 April 2010

Running Away from FAs- Pasketti Direct E7 6b

I've recently had two firsts for me. The first is headpoting routes, which I think is a great way to climb in the moors, considering its dirty, poorly protected and generally extremely sandbagged nature. The second is retreating from lead on new routes.

I was first too scared to get on 'The White Scoop' at Ravesdale (Stoop Brow) as it is hard 6b and with a ground clipping fall, but then today I actually retreated from my attempt at a more or less un-rehersed direct finish to my E5, the Pasketti Alpinist. Admittedly the holds are tiny, it was getting dark and there is only one (POOR!) cam in 20 metres, but I had seen the holds and knew what was coming. What is wrong with me? I'm turning into a moors punter. Allez, lets get sending. Off to Ravensdale tomorrow, quite psyched to go for a headpointed ascent of the scoop.