Tuesday, 20 April 2010

Back to Manchester And Moosey Thoughts

So a semi-successful trip back to the moors is over. Apart from 'The Hypocrisy of Moose' not much was really achieved. I've sussed out a lot of crags, projects and even seen the delights of Moors' bouldering at last. I've tried some stuff that seemed impossible (but then again 'The Moose' seemed impossible when I first tried it); realised that some of what I thought were 'last great problems' were pretty poor and even found a load more lines which look like they're pretty cool.

I suppose I should briefly explain why I called the arete 'The Hypocrisy of Moose'. Rather simple really- the ascent showed me for the Hypocritical Moose I am. Anyway, a big gap now and everything else I was trying in the moors seems a little easy and chossy in comparrison.

So the list of LG(perhaps not that great)Ps in the Moors currently stands at:

*The Arete at Ravenscar direct - H9 7a? *** (attempted on shunt)

The straightening-out of Steve's new E7+ would mean you'd be almost soloing the crux of his route, plus with a nails set of moves to get there.

*The Groove at Kepwick- H8/9 6c ** (linked on top rope)

F7cish to a V7 finish. One good Skyhook, serious possibility of injury. Ace climbing, poor setting.

*Gehenna Wall- E6/7 6b/c * (abed)

Chossy, but a good line. The holds will only hold about 40 kilos.

*The Scoop at Stoupe Brow- E7 6b/c *** (abed and shunted the crux)

Ace moves at around F7b+ with a massive but safish fall. Breaks out left from central crack.

A few routes that need doing but aren't really amazing (although quite good):

The finger Crack at Clemmitt's - E4/5 6b **- abed
Porcupine Arete, Snotterdale- E6 6b *-climbed a tree next to it
The Aid Line Kay Nest- E6 6c? - ground inspected
On crack Stoupe Brow- E5 6b ** - ground inspected

Choss not worth doing:

Mongol wall- E9?
Death arete- Danby- E8 6b?
The Roof crack at Middlehead- E4?
The wall at Oak crag- V9

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