Saturday, 10 April 2010

Danby Arete Goes H7 6c (E8?) *** - The Hypocrisy Of Moose

Last Moves (Betaguides)

It felt easy on lead- without the pull from the shunt unbalancing me on the super tenuous crux. A real classic I reckon, with sustained 6b climbing leading to a couple of moves of hard 6c. Feels a bit strange to be headpointing, but it's probably harder than anyone could onsight anyway and it's good to try new things.

Crux (Betaguides)

Grading is difficult as it depends on how bomber you think the RP flake is. It's definately a lot harder than the few E6s I've done and very blind and sequencey. For the onsight i'd say it's worth E8, but for my effort probably a little less. Hopefully someone can come and repeat it and tell me if it's soft or stiff. I'm happy now :-D.

I must thank Victor Scott, who supplied me with RPs and a new chalk bag- most kind and Lee Robinson for filming it. We had a great day, with a little bouldering and then arete magic.

Video to come.


ram man said...

Nice one, looks good. Will hopefully be along to give it a spin before long.

Franco Cookson said...

Nice one. I think i'm going to leave Ravenscar to you as it's nails! Don't let that put you off though and if you need a belay i'll be free for the next 2 weeksish. Time to get other things done me thinks.

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