Sunday, 4 April 2010

Desperendum E2 5c And Danby Arete Improvements

MVS Arete
Another day of intermitent showers. Dave was busy with his family so I went for a quick shunting session on the Danby arete. I expected it to be a mass of sodden crap, but was plesently surprised how the winter weather has cleaned all the dust off it (from my cleaning). With really good conditions and a little more boulder power than last time I tried it, I soon worked out a better sequence for the crux, with a cool double 'gaston' move. It's going to be hard- harder single move than the arete at ravenscar- so probably E8 6c, protected by an ok tricam at a third height. The ground is nicely steep and soft though.
MVS Arete


It then rained and I returned home, only to head back out to 'Snotterdale' with Dooge. An awful name for a crag and in general the route quality is poor, but there is an ok MVS and a really good E2 5c called Desperendum. Really nicely pumpy and beautifully protected, with good, spaced finger locks. I abed down the arete to the left to see if it would go as an FA, but the top was massively dirty and it looked like a one mover at a bold 6b sort of grade.

Returned home and had some Yorkshire Puddings. Bon.

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