Tuesday, 4 May 2010

Pembroke- Star Wars (E4 5c) And A Massive Whipper

Three days at Pembroke were planned. The weather looked dodgey. The weather turned out to be ace. We were pleased.


First route of the trip was Starwars, which is basically just beautiful sustained climbing at about F6c. The gear was a lot worse than I expected, but the moves were straightforward and despite the very warm temperatures it felt well within my abilities.


I decided I'd tick a classic before getting on something hard, with a recommendation of Pleasure Dome (E3 5c) I mooched round to Stennis Head. Roper warned me that it was easy to get lost, but I didn't listen and thought it might provide me with a nice clean whipper even if I did get lost. I left the flake going more or less straight up, where the route is meant to go right apparently. Joining the crux of the E3 after doing something strange and now with my hands gradually sweating up (20 foot above my gear), I slapped for the holds near what looked like the last move. O No!


I was in the air for a while; being out right and far up and not having the last runners that pleasure dome is meant to have. I could feel the wind on my face and apparently looked jack (my belayer) straight in the eye, with a look of horror as I finally came tight on the rope. Swinging into the ledge, at the end of the fall out zone, I managed to put my hand out as I swung sideways into some sharp rock.

After that I was pretty knackered and bloody, so just got drunk. We managed to tick the classics of the Hole **** (HVS 5b), Sunlover (E3), Youth on Fire (E3), Lundy Road (E2), Joy Bringer (VS) and Fulmar Pants (HVS). Fulmar Pants was particularly entertaining with gulls and feeling heavily drunk.

1 comment:

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