Wednesday, 30 June 2010

Video of the Groove at Kepwick linked

The video makes it look pretty eliminate. I might have to have a go at doing the right hand finish, as it ventures further away from the left arete and hence a better line (even though the left arete is useless).

Link of the Kepwick Groove from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

Copyright Rebex Earnshaw

I managed to place the skyhook whilst climbing and do the following moves, but it does make it feel seriously pumpy and makes the other moves harder. A better inspection of the pocket also revealed it's a bit rubbish and looks like it might snap. F7c soloing doesn't really appeal, but nor does F7c+ climbing protected by a skyhook which is massively scary to place- smearing wildly with a lone gaston. O well...

Tuesday, 29 June 2010

Moors Routes of H/E6 and above

Just some Anorak Route lists for moors-enthusiast. I find listing routes is good for Psyche. Looking at how far the moors has come since this time last year is pretty cool- with 5 routes of E7 now instead of 2. I sense this is just the beginning of Moors Developement, with a lot of new routes still out there and a fair few active people.
(U) = Unclimbed

(U)Kepwick Groove Right Hand- H9? 6c (F7c+)

(U) Kepwick Groove- H8+ 6c ** (F7c)


The Hypocrisy of Moose- H7+ 6c *** (F7b+)
Esmerelda H7+ 6c (F7c??) **
(U) Stoupe Brow Wall - E7+ 6b **
A Different Kind of Blue E7 6c *** (F7c) (Now 'ground uped with Beta'!)
(U)The Stoup Brow Groove- E7 6b (F7b+)***
Magic in the Air H7 6b(F7a+?)***
Fresh Arete- H7- 6b (F7a+) **
Collateral H6/7 6c
(U)Action Indirecte H7/8 6c (F7b+?)
(U) Kay Nest Arete- E7 7b (F8?)
(U) Gehenna Wall- E7- 6b/c (F7b)
(U) Kay Nest Wall E7? 6c??? (F7??)


Scut di Scun ai (H6 ++ 6b)
Three Screaming Popes E6+ 6c (F7b+)
(U) Roseberry Direct- E6+ 6b (F7a)
Origional Sin H6 6c (F?)
Chi Ching H6 6c (F?)
Desperate Den E6 6c (F7b+)
(U)Porcupine Arete E6 6b (F?)
Vampiric Obsession E6- 6b (DWS F7a)

Monday, 28 June 2010

Pabbay And Mingulay

I've been wanting to get out to the Hebrides for a while now, with so many pictures of epic-looking cliffs being smashed by the sea.

The routes are ridiculously good. There's not that much to say about the Islands, except that they're perfect in almost every way. You eventually get bored of climbing 3/4 star routes, with jugs everywhere and epic lines, splitting massive cliffs. I didn't even have to venture onto tricky routes to maintain interest in the islands, although we did put up perhaps one of the best routes around- Eagle Gravy (E1 4c). Or maybe not..

The crew was good, the weather was pretty cool- all in all an ace trip. Only a week to go until the alps now- maybe a quick headpoint of the Kepwick Groove before we go? It's shaping up to be an ace year.

Saturday, 12 June 2010

Follow The British Tahu Ratum Expedition

Luke Hunt, Tom Ripley and Hamish Dunn are attempting a new route up the Tahu Ratum NW ridge this summer. They're reasonably experienced alpinists, but have no experience of the greater ranges and have chosen a big objective for their first trip. The mountain looks ace and will no-doubt prove tricky. You can follow their progress via reports from Pakistan on their new blog. Good luck chaps!

The Unclimbed Groove linked

Back to Kepwick yesterday with Pete; finally met the Ravenscar beast that is Steve Ramsden. We rigged a top rope and I set about attempting to show the guys the Beta for the latest moors Challenge.

Both Pete and Steve abandoned my, what they described as, 'Dawes-esque' Beta and found a different way, which seemed a bit easier but more tiring.
A previous attempt

Eventually I linked the whole route via my dynamic way and sketched my way through the top crux. Pete and Steve both also came very close to linking it via their alternate start, but were a bit shut down by the last move which seemed to suit my style. They managed to do the top slightly differently though, with another move up (which I hadn't been able to do), before moving back left.

So quite a lesson in the variation in body types and strengths today. I'm feeling pretty strong at the moment and once I figure out a way to place the Skyhook on lead it's probably going to be 'lead time'. The Tricam is worse and even harder to place than I thought, so not really worth bothering stopping on a hard move to place. Bomber Skyhook though....

Steve seemed to agree that it's going to be getting a 'pretty weighty' H grade, plainly due to it having a crux about as hard as 'The Moose', but with F7cish climbing before and a lone skyhook. It's going to be sweet.

A final 8 mile walk back from Guisborough made the following visit to the pub quite interesting- down and out after 3 pints.

Thursday, 10 June 2010

A Proper Moors LGP

Since Steve found a solution to the Ravenscar arete there has only really been one last great problem left. It has been top roped by a couple of past moorland greats, but both thought it too sketchy to lead.
The Start Move (big)

It's a leaning wall and the belay up top is rubbish, so i've been waiting a while to get some stakes in. Today we managed to get up there and hammered some belay stakes into some beautiful solid turf.
A crappy wall. Looks about E3.

I couldn't get over how cool the route is, with a hard introductory pop at about V5 off a big undercut and then a harder move followed by sustained bouldery moves to gain a blind groove. From here a series of monos and balancy moves lead up to the crux. The route is really sustained (about F7c) until the crux move which is a hypocrisy of moose-esque gaston rock-over. A much bigger move than the Moose, but on better holds and not so contorted. We didn't manage to link the route as after attempting vast amounts of sequences up the plethora of pockets and slopers we had got quite tired.
The videos (to come) show some of the moves though. Chuffed with Doogies psyche today, ultimately unlocking the way through the crux. It's going to be a bold route though, with 12 metres of climbing protected with one bomber skyhook and perhaps a Tricam if we can find a position to place it. Thanks to Rebex for taking pictures.
Breaking a hold up top

Thursday, 3 June 2010

A New Project And New Movement

It appears that sometimes the holds alone are not enough to support upwards movement and we must use the momentum from the previous move to help us skip through the harder one. I discovered such a solution to an apparent unclimbed but past-tried line today.

Gear at 2/5 height protects the crux moves perfectly- first leaving the break and then making wildly dynamic progression above. I spent a lot of time hanging off the crux attempting to find a pebble or nodule that may make progression possible. No such hold appeared. I was only 9 inches off a good slopey crimp and, after much trying, managed to use the momentum from the previous rockover into the break to catapult me to the very edge of my reach.

Hard moves, not quite sure how hard until I try it on a day which isn't so horribly hot. Definitely very hard for the short.