Thursday, 3 June 2010

A New Project And New Movement

It appears that sometimes the holds alone are not enough to support upwards movement and we must use the momentum from the previous move to help us skip through the harder one. I discovered such a solution to an apparent unclimbed but past-tried line today.

Gear at 2/5 height protects the crux moves perfectly- first leaving the break and then making wildly dynamic progression above. I spent a lot of time hanging off the crux attempting to find a pebble or nodule that may make progression possible. No such hold appeared. I was only 9 inches off a good slopey crimp and, after much trying, managed to use the momentum from the previous rockover into the break to catapult me to the very edge of my reach.

Hard moves, not quite sure how hard until I try it on a day which isn't so horribly hot. Definitely very hard for the short.

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