Thursday, 10 June 2010

A Proper Moors LGP

Since Steve found a solution to the Ravenscar arete there has only really been one last great problem left. It has been top roped by a couple of past moorland greats, but both thought it too sketchy to lead.
The Start Move (big)

It's a leaning wall and the belay up top is rubbish, so i've been waiting a while to get some stakes in. Today we managed to get up there and hammered some belay stakes into some beautiful solid turf.
A crappy wall. Looks about E3.

I couldn't get over how cool the route is, with a hard introductory pop at about V5 off a big undercut and then a harder move followed by sustained bouldery moves to gain a blind groove. From here a series of monos and balancy moves lead up to the crux. The route is really sustained (about F7c) until the crux move which is a hypocrisy of moose-esque gaston rock-over. A much bigger move than the Moose, but on better holds and not so contorted. We didn't manage to link the route as after attempting vast amounts of sequences up the plethora of pockets and slopers we had got quite tired.
The videos (to come) show some of the moves though. Chuffed with Doogies psyche today, ultimately unlocking the way through the crux. It's going to be a bold route though, with 12 metres of climbing protected with one bomber skyhook and perhaps a Tricam if we can find a position to place it. Thanks to Rebex for taking pictures.
Breaking a hold up top

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