Saturday, 12 June 2010

The Unclimbed Groove linked

Back to Kepwick yesterday with Pete; finally met the Ravenscar beast that is Steve Ramsden. We rigged a top rope and I set about attempting to show the guys the Beta for the latest moors Challenge.

Both Pete and Steve abandoned my, what they described as, 'Dawes-esque' Beta and found a different way, which seemed a bit easier but more tiring.
A previous attempt

Eventually I linked the whole route via my dynamic way and sketched my way through the top crux. Pete and Steve both also came very close to linking it via their alternate start, but were a bit shut down by the last move which seemed to suit my style. They managed to do the top slightly differently though, with another move up (which I hadn't been able to do), before moving back left.

So quite a lesson in the variation in body types and strengths today. I'm feeling pretty strong at the moment and once I figure out a way to place the Skyhook on lead it's probably going to be 'lead time'. The Tricam is worse and even harder to place than I thought, so not really worth bothering stopping on a hard move to place. Bomber Skyhook though....

Steve seemed to agree that it's going to be getting a 'pretty weighty' H grade, plainly due to it having a crux about as hard as 'The Moose', but with F7cish climbing before and a lone skyhook. It's going to be sweet.

A final 8 mile walk back from Guisborough made the following visit to the pub quite interesting- down and out after 3 pints.


Anonymous said...

Hi Franco,
Good effort linking it all together; couldn't help noticing that you're doing the left-hand finish though which I think is the way Monty TR'd it years ago. When I've top roped it I've carried on to the top of the groove feature (getting left hand on the sidepull at the top is the crux for me) and then stepped right and up via flat holds. Think that this is the more natural line and gives better, harder climbing. I thought the whole thing was about french 7c+ at the time E8 6c (or H8 if you like!), given the sandy rock and non-existent gear. Richard Waterton.

Franco Cookson said...


There are definately two different finishes to the route, the dright hand probably being the hardest and the best (and more dangerous). I'll be having another play on it in a bit so will see how the right hand finish goes. I think E8 is about right, although maybe hard for the grade with your finish.