Wednesday, 30 June 2010

Video of the Groove at Kepwick linked

The video makes it look pretty eliminate. I might have to have a go at doing the right hand finish, as it ventures further away from the left arete and hence a better line (even though the left arete is useless).

Link of the Kepwick Groove from Dave Warburton on Vimeo.

Copyright Rebex Earnshaw

I managed to place the skyhook whilst climbing and do the following moves, but it does make it feel seriously pumpy and makes the other moves harder. A better inspection of the pocket also revealed it's a bit rubbish and looks like it might snap. F7c soloing doesn't really appeal, but nor does F7c+ climbing protected by a skyhook which is massively scary to place- smearing wildly with a lone gaston. O well...


ram man said...

damn copyright I was just about to copy that.

Anyway, nice one, does it feel alright in the raging heat then? Holds feel any less scrittly now its been dry for days/weeks?

I don't think eliminate's the right word. The way I see it there're simply two finishes - rocking left to the good hold (easier) and sticking with the flake direct.

You were probably going to anyway but I'd recommend simulating the lead on toprope if you're taking a rope for the real deal. Wouldn't want to get a shock from the weight or position of the lead rope(s) on lead - especially on that last move!

Franco Cookson said...

Heat doesn't really make that much difference. Even Dooge 'sweat' warburton most of the moves. The rock is a bit snappy like and I don't think the skyhook would hold. Should be an interesting solo....

I think i'm just going to go for the left hand, as the right is going to take too long to get sorted. I'll be making sure I can clip the skyhook on lead before I get on it!

Anonymous said...

Second last move looks desperate!