Monday, 26 July 2010

American Direct

Well cold. A 4O'clock start meant the face was really cold. We simuled the first ten or so pitches, which normally would have been fine, but the face was verglassed, so pretty sketchy.

A couple of Canadian guides backed off near the terrace and we should have probably too, but stoked for the tick, we got a fair way up. We managed all the crux pitches but then chris ended up taking a 25 metre fall off a layback crack a bit off route.
I was cold and talked Chris into a retreat. A few sketchy abs led to the terrace and the beautiful bolt belays. Most horrendous, but a bon alpine-feeling route in utterly ridiculous nick.

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