Saturday, 3 July 2010

Kepwick Groove Musings and The Alps 2010

The Hypocrisy of Moose seemed like a major route and a serious undertaking at the time, and it was. With one hard move above marginal gear, but with a limitted physical and dangerous aspect. In hindsight, I reckon the gear (placed well) would probably hold on the moose, but due to the difficulty of the move, I reckon it will probably stay as a classic moors H7.

Comparing this to the Kepwick groove scares me. When I topped out on 'The Moose' I felt like I could have soloed it, which is good, as the crux of the groove is about as hard as the moose and above a lone Skyhook. Unlike 'The Moose' though, the groove has a lot of difficult climbing before the crux, which is sort of worrying. There was no worry about pumping out on the Moose, but a lack of juice for the final move on the Groove would leave you trusting the skyhook above an extremely serious fall. I'm starting to understand the difficulty of headpointing now- I can do the moves, but it's a big commitment to set out on a route where you can't hang about for rescue.

It will all have to wait now anyway. Tomorrow is the start of mine and Dooge's grand voyage to the Alps and we're pretty stoked. Dingey Kepwick will be swapped for sweeping granite features, good food, mountains and hopefully some sun. Chamonix is guaranteed to be amazing once again and i'm stoked for some ace routes. I'm not even that concerned with pushing the boat out, just getting on some amazing routes with cool people and cheap baguettes. Peace.

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