Monday, 2 August 2010

Alps Failure

There were a lot of objectives kicking around in early July and non of them have been achieved. We failed to do any of the classic Chamonix routes and failed to even get on the South Face of the Fou.
Plus Lourd Que L'Air (ED4/ F7a+)

I wasn't that bothered about not getting on stuff like the Walker, as the conditions were awful and our one 'pushing the boat out' experience on the American Direct was utterly ridiculous. Me and Chris had been pretty stoked for the Fou, but even that had to be abandoned when the aiguilles got plastered in powder and hoar.
In Absentia (F7b)


A depressing trip all-round, but at least i've been making decisions in an alpine setting and climbed some hardish routes in the aiguilles. Dimanche Noir (VIII) was particularly harrowing, described as 'bold and unavoidable moves'. It was definitely some of the hardest climbing i've done and in its seeping state the crux move up top had to be avoided by an even more desperate move. So i'm partially happy to have climbed some long trad routes, but not even getting on the Fou is really annoying. O well, next year will be bon.
Dooge Following the Crux Pitch of Verdon Memories

1 comment:

Calum Nicoll said...

Is that picture below of the shack in argentiere or it somewhere else?

Well ace if it now has a tin for a bath.