Wednesday, 11 August 2010


I've always been quite a bold climber, with most of my greater achievements being dangerous and easy, rather than hard and safe. This works well with a lot of Moors new routing, as most hard routes are massively bold.

I'm getting really torn at the moment between being conservative and safe or just going for it on routes which I know I should be fine on. Routes like 'Fresh arete' without side runners which I have shunted a fair few times and never fallen off the crux. It should go, and it will go, but today I just looked down from the crux at the boulders below and thought about what I was gaining.

In the grand scheme of things it's a good new route at an esoteric crag, that will probably make me quite happy to look back at as an adventure of my youth, but it's hardly a 1000 metre new route in the karakorum. It was spitting a bit today, so I suppose i'll have to see how I feel on a day with perfect conditions. Interesting to ponder though.

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