Saturday, 21 August 2010

Round Crag New Routes- H7 and E6 Onsight.

After a week of disillusioned work and drinking, me and Dave decided to pop back up to Round crag for 4 hours.

Untitled from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.

Me shunting it previously

Dave was psyched for Fresh Arete without side-runners, which was good as I couldn't really justify it, with the number of fluffable moves and the fall of certain injury. It was probably the most intense belay I've ever had, with the jump into the blocks below being the only way I could have stopped Dave hitting the deck, with the ludicrously low gear (2 metres).

Dave Warburton Headpoints New Moors E7 6b At Round Crag from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.

To be honest I think it was mainly psychological as the run-out was immense and the fall terrifying. Dave dispatched the route with ease and seemed very happy. Good effort from a guy on top-form. He's yet to name the route, but consensus from the people working the route previously indicated a grade of around E7 6b, which is about right.

Next up was an untried route. It takes the wall to the right of Honey Arete (E5 6b *** (more like **) ). Dave rapped the route and cleaned, chalked and tried some moves. He gave me some beta and then I went for the onsight flash. It took me a while and I eventually figured out the crux and boshed up via slappy side-pulls and horror-show tree-route pulling above the swamp.
First bit...

I called my new route Vampiric Obsession and it goes at about E6 6b, or a DWS grade of F7a. I had a small boulder mat on the bog below to keep my feet dry. Pretty glad i didn't take the leg-breaking fall onto it like.

Post-Vampiric Obsession Fear from Franco Cookson on Vimeo.

The day was finished by some forced-pot holing, attempting to find some lost nuts down some turfy boulders!

An amazing afternoon out in a beautiful place, with a psyched dooge and climbing some good routes. Happy as.

Vampiric Obsession is the Red line.

1 comment:

Olli said...

Thats the weirdest looking warm up ive ever seen