Saturday, 7 August 2010

Round Crag- 'Fresh Arete'

I went up to Round Crag today as no one was around to do anything. I was pretty stoked for the arete to the left of Scut de Scun ai (E6+ 6b), which Steve Ramsden has recently headpointed with side runners in Time Out.

It didn't take long to realise why Steve had used the side runners- amazingly slappy climbing. He's managed to create a great little safe testpiece with big moves from bottom to top and gear just out left, with moves which are very hard to onsight.

Round Headpointing from Ram Man on Vimeo.

(Copyright Steve Ramsden)

I managed the route via a hard and insecure sequence and then managed to figure out a way to do the crux in a far more reasonable fashion, which felt like E5 6b climbing, rather than F7c.

Whilst Steve's route will be one of the moor's E5s of the future to try, it definitely needs an ascent 'sans' side runners, which is going to be a horrific E7 at about F7b. I'm not massively psyched for an insecure solo like...

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

How is this not just a highball boulder problem?!