Saturday, 2 October 2010

Grooving to Success

An undercut wildly to a small positive crimpy pocket,
From here a recoup after a very on/off move,
and then divine inspiration,
Still with no gear,
an off balance move with a hard pull to an intermediate edge,
A further unnatural slap,
gain the next pocket with the back of your left middle finger,
This security of a deep pocket is broken as you smear wildly,
right hand on a gaston,
Place the skyhook in that pocket,
sealing your security and fate,
now only your left little finger will fit in,
the sharp edge of the skyhook scrapes at it,
a high foot on a good edge,
out right for a middle finger mono,
Now in a crucifix position,
held by a high right foot,
trailing left,
left little finger,
powerful right hand mono,
Slap to a flat edge by your face,
and then the natural climbing begins,
with one movement,
the hand latches as the right leg extends,
further above your Skyhook,
the right hand is raised to a sloping gaston,
the left hand is brought close by,
pushing at the edge of the scoop,
The left foot is raised,
then raised again,
a massive move,
the crux,
the left foot is so high that momentum must be started by sideways movement,
the left had counter balances,
the right foot scratches at nothing,
all force is driven from the power of you right middle finger,
now hyper extended and the elastic properties of tendons are keeping you alive,
a final build up,
the most important pop of your life,
the jug is reached and only a show-boating pop to the top remains.

10 metres. A lot of thought.

Too cowardly to get on it. Even with an unbroken hand. Macleod reckons to climb 'If six was Nine' (F8a+) you should be climbing F8c+/9a to retreat out of the death zone and be safe. So extrapolate that to the Kepwick groove. A similarly dangerous route, but at about F7c, instead of F8a+, so you should be climbing about F8b/+to be safe on it. This is probably why it hasn't been done. There aren't many people about in the moors who climb F8b, so the only alternative is to be a bit mental. The moors does have a lot of mental climbers (all of the ones that i've met in fact), but not many of them have the interest in extending this to F7c new routes.

Bon bit of pondering then.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

Maybe you should wait until you've actually climbed 7c before you start chucking grades around.

Franco Cookson said...

How hurtful.

Anonymous said...

How about climbing-naked ?

I bet you'd look really cute, naked, in a climbing-harness !

Cloe xxx

Franco Cookson said...

how Strange.

Anonymous said...

Sorry Franco, I'm just a little kinky !

What are you studying ?

Ever go to The Leeds Wall ?

Cloe xxx

Franco Cookson said...

sorry, not into lasses. And Leeds wall is awful.